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Tips & Techniques

STAMPING TECHNIQUES

TRADITIONAL – SOLID STAMPING
1. Press the stamp on the ink pad to ink the rubber image.
2. Stamp on the paper, pressing firmly and evenly, being careful not to rock or slide. With many different colors of ink pads, one stamp can go a long way.




TWO-STEP STAMPING

1. Ink larger, bolder stamp with lighter color. Stamp image.
2. Ink smaller, detailed stamp in darker color & stamp image over the first image. This technique creates beautiful, easy stamping in seconds.




COLORBOOK

1. Ink up outline image in a solid color
2. Color in design with markers, colored pencils, chalks, or watercolors.




BRUSH MARKER

1. Using markers, apply ink directly to the stamp.
2. Breathe (huff) on stamp to remoisten ink, then stamp on paper. Markers allow you to create a personalized, multicolored image.




MASKING

1. Stamp image onto card. On a piece of scratch paper, stamp again & cut out the image.
2. Lay the scratch paper image over the card image. Stamp the next image over the scratch paper image. After pulling the scratch paper image away, you will have two layered, interacting images.




OMITTING

1. Markers make it possible to omit parts of the stamp image. With a clean stamp, color only the part of the stamp that you want to show.
2. Stamp on paper. The technique makes your stamp more versatile.




RAINBOW INK PADS

1. Rainbow pads are multicolored stamp pads. By changing the position of the stamp on the pad, multiple rainbow colors can be created using one pad.
2. When using a small stamp image, you can get five individual colors using only one pad.




TIE-DYED

1. Take a Kleenex tissue & wad it up at one end & leave enough for you to hold at the other end.
2. Using a Kaleidacolor ink pad, take a wad of Kleenex tissue & stamp it on the pad.... covering at least 2-3 colors.
3. Then take inked Kleenex tissue & stamp onto light colored cardstock.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 until entire surface is covered.
5. This gives a great tie-dyed look. You can use a single color pad &/or put another color on top of that. This allows for versatility.




STAMPIN’ AROUND WHEELS

Insert the ink cartridge into the handle, then snap in the wheel. Remove the lid of the cartridge (cartridge will slide up to fit snugly against wheel.) Ink the wheel on scratch paper first for even distribution of the ink. Replace the cartridge lid when finished.
2. With even pressure, roll the wheel across the paper. Create fun, continuous images in seconds!




COLOR DABBING

This is a technique that gives you just a hint of color to a stamped design.
1. Stamp a design onto cardstock. Using a Dauber-Duo, add touches of color to elements in the image.
Be creative & see where you add color & how much. 2. You can use a Dauber-Duo to flick the edges of cards for a “framed” look.




KISSING

1. Ink up a background stamp....making sure that it is inked up well. Take another stamp, a bold/solid stamp, place it on top of the background stamp....effectively using the background stamp as the ink pad.




REPEATING AN IMAGE – FADING OUT

This method will give the sense of depth or a sense of movement....depending on what stamp you use.
1. Ex: Tree - Ink tree up with a green ink pad. Stamp with it more than once before inking it up once again.




STREAKING

Thoroughly apply ink to a rubber stamp. Stamp the stamping surface (do not use glossy paper!). Without lifting the stamp from the stamping surface, pull it in the opposite direction of the way the image should appear to be going. This streaking effect gives the illusion of motion.




LOOSE GLITTER

1. On a previously stamped image, use the Two-Way Glue pen to apply glue where you want the glitter.
2. Sprinkle loose glitter on the image, pour off excess glitter, putting it back into the jar. This technique adds glitz to any card.




GLITTER & LACE BACKGROUND

For a basic card:
Cardstock * Sticker Paper * Lace * 1 Dark Shade of Glitter * 1 Light Shade of Glitter
1. Cut your sticker paper into 1/4 sheets. Pull the protective backing off the sticker paper to reveal the sticky area.
2. Stick a piece of lace to the sticker paper & smooth it down firmly.
3. Pour a dark shade of glitter all over the card, making sure the whole thing is covered. Shake off extra.
4. Strip lace off of card.
5. Next pour light shade of glitter all over card. It will stick to the areas that do not have the dark glitter. Shake off excess glitter.
6. Spray seal your glitter with hairspray.
7. Tack down onto folded cardstock or whatever your project may be.




GLITTER WINDOW

Clear Window Sheet (1/4 size – postcard size)
Black Pigment Ink
Open Image – ex: Stained Glass set
Glue with small nozzle on end
1. Stamp image onto the window sheet with black pigment ink, heat set the ink!
2. Fill in an area in the image with glue & do one area at a time.
3. When area is filled with glue, put glitter on & dump off the excess glitter.
4. Continue to fill in each area.
5. When dry put the card together. The card should have an opening to create a window frame. Glitter side should be facing down.




GLITTER~Candle Stamping

1. Pour Dazzling Diamonds glitter onto a sheet of paper…..spread it out a little.
2. Take a rubber stamp (bold outline, like Flutterbys) & stamp into the glitter.
3. Check to make sure stamp is evenly coated, tap if there is too much.
4. Heat your candle with hair dryer or heat tool until just warm.
5. Stamp directly onto the candle using even firm pressure. You might have to roll the candle a little to get the entire image on. Raise your stamp and admire!!




LIQUID APPLIQUE

1. Using Liquid Applique, apply directly to stamped area where you want a 3-D look.
2. Apply heat, using a blow dryer or heat tool & watch the Liquid Applique rise, leaving a puffed look. *Heat immediately for an uneven puff look or wait until it is dry for an even puff look.
3. Draw your own flowers, words or accents with Liquid Applique.




LEATHER TEXTURE ~ SUEDE EFFECT

1. Squirt an ample amount of Liquid Applique onto wax paper. Roll rubber brayer over the applique so it evenly coats the brayer. Roll onto cardstock & cover evenly. Heat with a heat tool or blow dryer for a nice soft feel & look. **You can also sponge Liquid Applique onto stamps.... stamp on cardstock....heat image on card.




LIQUID APPLIQUE With Cloud Stencil

1. Experiment mixing Liquid Applique colors on wax paper to get just the right texture.
2. Mix 1 drop of light blue into white Liquid Applique.
3. To create wispy clouds: place the cloud stencil at top of card.
4. Dip stamping sponge into Liquid Applique mix.
5. Brush away from cloud stencil.
6. Repeat, shift stencil...move around & down card. Heat with heat tool.
* Note: To make velveteen hillsides...mix green colors & do the same.




COLORED PENCILS
1. When using colored pencils start with lighter color first & work towards darker colors for shading.
2. Let colors overlap & blend in interesting shades. It is more effective to apply several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired intensity is reached, rather than one very heavy application.
3. Stray marks can be erased with an art eraser.




SKELETON LEAVES
Use a skeleton leaf to make a pattern on your card. You may purchase leaves at a craft store or create your own by soaking them in a solution of 2 parts bleach to 1 part water.
1. The best time to bleach/skeletonize leaves is when they are green.
2. Sponge over the leaf with ink to make a copy of it on the card.




EGGSHELL CRACKLE
What you need:
Heavy White Cardstock (back of Glossy works fine) Pastels or Markers
Eggshell Crackle Medium from Folk Art
Paint Brush or Sponge Brush
Basic Black Ink Pad
Pigment Ink
Paper Towels
Sponge Daubers
Directions:
1. Stamp image with Basic Black ink pad (must be waterproof ink). Let dry.
2. Color image with pastels or markers.
3. Brush the “first step” of Eggshell Crackle all over image Let dry. Do another coat & let that dry.
4. Brush the “second step” of Eggshell Crackle. Let dry. Now you will see the crackle.
5. Take a pigment ink (one that will match a color used to color in your image). Use something dark or a brown gel stain....rub on then rub off.
6. Color will remain in the cracks & show off the crackle. You now have an old fashioned crackled Porcelain look. (Remember when using the crackle 2-step mediums, to clean your brush between coats. This will ruin your brushes if you do not clean them.)




GLASS STAMPING

1. Lightly dust the area to be stamped with Static Magic (a little cloth bag filled with powder). This keeps the embossing powder off of any place you don’t want it.
2. Stamp with a Colorbox ink pad. *If you don’t like the image, simply wipe it away with a damp paper towel.
3. When you get an image you like, sprinkle it with embossing powder & heat it up. The key to glass is to KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING at all times. You don not want it to get too hot in one spot. It does take a bit longer to heat up then paper & takes patience. You want to let it cool before going on to the next spot. You may find it easier to work on 2 or more glass pieces at a time....while one is cooling, you could work on another one.
4. You can color in an image if you wish. Color it in with waterbased markers. This gives it a “stained glass” effect. 5. If you have colored in the image you will want to seal it with clear acrylic spray.
**Be sure glass is very clean (alcohol is good).
**Do not handle it too much. Oil from your hands can transfer to the glass.
** When using glass ball ornaments.....the frosted glass balls work the best
**Do not overheat or you risk burning yourself.
If you can't find things that are pre frosted, you can do it yourself with Armor’s Etching cream (in crafts stores) or Etch-All (www.etchall.com). Follow etching instructions on the package.....please wear protective gloves when etching. Also work in a well-ventilated area. You may consider wearing a painters mask.




GHOSTING ~ Resist without Embossing
Rubber Stamps * Ultrasmooth White Cardstock * Brayer * Embossing Ink * Single Color Dye-Based Ink Pad.
1. Find a stamp image of swirls, snowflakes, bold images or shadow like images, etc.)
2. Ink the stamp with embossing ink & stamp with it. Do this several times on the card.
3. Do not apply embossing powder or heat.
4. Ink the brayer with the single color dye-based ink pad, then roll it over the card. The embossing ink acts as a resist, the images will appear as more color is applied.
5. You can leave this as is or this can be stamped or embossed in a complementary or contrasting color.




GOLD ENCORE RESIST
1. Stamp a bold image with Encore Gold Metallic Ink onto white glossy cardstock.
2. Take a paper towel & rub all the gold off.
3. Take a brayer & roll it into a Kaleidacolor ink pad & roll onto the glossy paper.
The gold images show though the rainbow ink. It only works with the gold & not the other metallic inks.




RUBBER CEMENT RESIST
Materials:
Rubber Cement
Soft Rubber Brayer
Stampin’ Write Markers or Kaleidacolor Pad
Sticker paper
Glossy card stock
Rubber cement eraser
Steps:
1. Brush rubber cement onto the center area of a card and allow it to dry.
2. Ink a rubber brayer with a multi-colored stamp pad or brush art markers, then roll the brayer over the card several times.
3. Once the ink has dried, rub the rubber cement off with a rubber cement pick-up eraser or your fingers. The same technique can be used by first coloring the card with a multi-colored brayer, applying rubber cement as before, and then applying a layer of black ink or another solid color with the brayer. Remove the rubber cement for a dramatic look. In both cases, a pre-stamped cut-out image was then placed in the center area where the rubber cement had been removed.




SEALING WAX
1. Trim the wick of the sealing wax. Light & let drip into a puddle. Let it sit for about 5 seconds.
2. Ink up your small image in an embossing pad (metallics look great) & stamp into wax puddle.
3. Hold for about 3-5 seconds & lift straight up. The ink keeps the stamp from sticking to the wax. Some people use oil but the ink adds a little color & pizzazz.




MELTED CRAYON BACKGROUND
1. Take bits of crayons & place on paper or fabric.
2. Cover with waxed paper.
3. Cover with another sheet of paper & a thin cotton cloth.
4. Using an iron, set to medium heat, slowly melt the bits of crayon by moving the iron in circular motions around the cloth.
5. When you think the crayon bits have been melted, carefully lift the cloth & top sheet of paper to examine. If not melted completely, recover & iron again.
If using on fabric, muslin is perfect & light enough to tack onto a card. Do the above directions. Stamp onto the crayon melted fabric with Black Fabrico Ink Pad….a bold lined open image works great (like flower, Christmas tree, etc.), heat set. Use crayon colors that would look good for the image you plan on using. Cut out a square around the image & tack down onto the front of your card.




COMPUTER IRON-ON TRANSFER
*Suggestion - do not do this on canvas, it really doesn’t work too well. Remember transfer paper isn’t cheap but you can do a lot with just one sheet of 8 1/2 by 11.
You Need:
100% Cotton Fabric
* Basic Black Ink Pad
* Scissors
* Computer Iron-on Transfer Paper
* Iron
* Markers - regular waterbased markers
Directions:
1. Wash the fabric without fabric softener. Iron out any wrinkles if any.
2. Stamp your image(s) with the black ink pad on to the transfer paper. Color in the image(s) with markers. Shade with deeper colors in the same color family if you want to.
3. Cut close to the image leaving about 1/4 “ around it & a little tag (as a finger grip). Fold the tag back to the backside of the image.
4. Place the image upside down onto fabric & iron in a circular motion....counting to 10. Lift off the iron, pull up on the little tag that you have folded back. Pull up the entire backing of the image. You have now transferred your image onto the fabric. **Note: If you hold the iron too long onto the fabric, the backing will stick to the fabric & not come off. Also if you do not hold it down long enough, the image will peel off.




VELVET STAMPING EMBOSSED VELVET
You Need:
Velvet (acetate/rayon) Dry Iron
Squirt Bottle with Water
Stamps (bold works best)
Directions:
1. Set your iron on the wool setting’ (usually the hottest setting).
2. Lightly spray the back side of your velvet with water.
3. Place your stamp face up on your work surface.
4. Place the velvet, right side down on top of your stamp & hold of approximately 30-45 seconds.
5. Presto....you’re image is complete.
Hints:
* Bold stamps work best.
* Make sure the velvet is made of acetate/rayon or silk - NOT COTTON/POLYESTER.
* Some irons have steam holes on the bottom of the iron. So it may be necessary to reposition your iron so that the holes are not directly over your larger stamps.
* It is necessary to cut around your stamp images close to the image so that the iron doesn’t pick up the edges of the rubber.
* Let your stamp cool down before stamping with it again.




PAINTED VELVET
You need:
Light Colored Velvet (acetate/rayon or silk)
Big, Bold Definitely Decorative Stamps
* Stampin’ Write Markers
* Iron
Directions:
1. Color your stamps with the Stampin’ Write markers.
2. Lay the stamps on a table with the colored rubber side facing up.
3. Carefully place the velvet over the stamps.
4. Place the hot iron on top of the stamped area & hold for 30 seconds.
**Tips**
This technique is for cards & decorative purposes, not for wearables. The markers are not colorfast.
You can use color on dark velvets, too! It is recommended that you use Colorbox Metallic Ink Pads.
To not get a print from the seam holes in an iron, use the back part of the iron where there are no holes.
You may also use a Teflon pressing cloth or just move the iron the entire time.




AIR ART GUN
There are a number of uses for this little gadget. Use it in place of a speckle stamp....use it after using stencils like Dots & Stripes....great for backgrounds. Use with markers or Zig Painty Pens.




AIR ART GUN~THUMPING
1. Ink your bold stamp up with a light colored ink pad.
2. Spritz a darker color on the image with the air gun.
3. Repeat with other colors if you wish.
(ex: DD Fruits - ink pear stamp with yellowish color & then



AIRBRUSHED WATERCOLOR
1. Spray a piece of cardstock with water from a mister.
2. Use the air gun to spray several colors from your markers all over the paper. This blends the colors into each other for a pretty background.




WATER MIST
1. Instead of huffing your image before stamping, spray a very fine mist of water (a little spritz will do from about 12” away) over your stamp, then stamp image on cardstock. This will give it a somewhat muted watercolor effect. You can spray a few times, the ink lasts longer than you would expect. The image will continue to get lighter, but combined with the original “bright” stamped image, it adds depth to your project. (Variation: Some people mist the paper & not the stamp. If there is too much water….lightly mop up with a paper towel.)




WATERCOLOR~Grabbing Color
Watercolor with markers, ink pads, watercolor paints, watercolor pencils or even acrylic paints. Use a wet watercolor paint brush or blender pen.
1. Markers: Make a palette with markers & pick up color with a paint brush or blender pen.
2. Ink Pads: From the lid of an ink pad...pick up color with a paint brush or blender pen.
3. Watercolor Paints: Pick up color with a paint brush.
4. Watercolor Pencils: Color in an area of a stamped image. Take a damp paint brush or blender pen to draw the color out. For cards or other craft projects you may water down acrylic paint & paint it with it. You can even do the same with Fabrico & Encore Ink Refills.




WATERCOLOR PENCILS
Allow for soft graduated shading and professional looking blending effects. Embossed designs look beautiful when shaded with colored pencils. Watercolor pencils are more versatile than regular colored pencils. You have the option of creating colored pencil effects. Colored pencils can be used only for coloring in an already stamped design. They cannot be used directly on your stamps.




Applying & Blending Watercolor Pencils
When using colored pencils start with lighter colors first and work to the darker. Let the colors overlap and blend for interesting shades It is more effective to apply several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired intensity is reached, rather than one very heavy application. Stray marks can be erased with an art eraser.




Creating Watercolor Effects (optional)
Once the coloring is completed, you can stop here, or achieve different effects by adding water. Color your image with dry pencils, blending and shading as desired. Dampen a paintbrush with water and paint over colored areas. A barely damp brush gives brighter color, with pencil lines showing. Adding more water will blend the colors more smoothly. The more water you add, the less intense your colors will be. But adding excessive amounts of water will cause the colors to run together, and the paper to buckle.
Blend the colors instead by stroking with a blender pen, eliminating the need for brush or water. You will find that this is a great use of the blender pen!




Watercolor Techniques
Watercolor pencils give you professional looking results with the benefits of ease in use, lots of pigment, reasonable price, and the use of a fine point for coloring small areas.
1. Use with a palette: rub a pencil tip on a piece of paper, building up pigment. Use a damp brush or blender pen to pick up pigment and add to your art. This is a great way to mix colors.
2. For bright bold colors, take the pigment directly from your pencil tip. Dip your brush in water and press to the tip of the pencil. This will give you undiluted pigment for strong colors.
3. A thick opaque look can be achieved by dipping the pencil tip in water and applying the color wet.
4. Dry use of watercolor pencils to color stamped images on dark paper or on velour paper gives beautiful results.




ENCORE WATERCOLOR
1. Emboss an image using metallic embossing powder (this sets off the Encore watercolor shimmer).
2. In a palette use a drop of Encore refill & add a little water.
3. Apply to image with a lightly wet paint brush.




PIGMENT INK WATERCOLORING
Make a palette with pigment ink refills or simply take a lightly wet paint brush & apply it to the ink pad. You’re ready to paint! This includes Colorbox & Fabrico inks.




DIE-CUTS
1. Place a die-cut shape down onto cardstock - use the 2-way glue pen on the back of the die-cut & let it dry before placing the die-cut down....this will make it repositionable (like post-it notes glue).
2. Use the air gun & spritz colors around the images....when done lift the die-cuts off & you now have fancy silhouettes of the shapes.
3. Instead of using the air gun you can also use the stamping sponge around the shape.
Use a single shape on a card or several on a full sheet for a memory page.




CHALKING ~ PASTELS
The best choices for papers & cardstocks are smooth, & uncoated. Chalk can also be applied to wood, paperclay, paper mache & other porous surfaces. If there are any mistakes to fix....use a small white or art gum eraser. To prevent smears you will want to seal the chalk. You can use matte spray fixative or hair spray (aerosol).
Shading:
May be used wet or dry. Blue, Grey or Black are good color choices for shadows. Layer colors. Start with the lighter color & apply a deeper color of the same tone on top of the lighter shades.




Chalked Embossing:
Chalk will stick to embossing powders, especially white. For best results start by stamping on dark colored cardstock in the frost white Colorbox & embossing in any of our white embossing powders. Apply the chalk to the white areas of your stamped image. After chalking rub with a eraser to get rid of the powdery look & make the image shine.




Chalked Applique:
Using the white Liquid Applique, embellish the details of your work. Allow it to dry before puffing it up with a heat tool & then apply chalk to it. It picks up the color & holds.





Chalked Sponging: Using sponges & chalks with your stencils will give you beautiful soft clouds, muted dots & stripes & gently blended backgrounds.




Chalked Pigment:
Stamp a solid image in white pigment ink on a dark cardstock. Let it dry & then color lightly with chalks.




Chalked Silhouette:
This method works best with bold images. Example: DD Grapes - Stamp the leaves in green & the grapes in purple. Apply the same shades to chalk over the images. This will give it a soft airbrushed feel to them.




Marbled Chalk Background:
Put about an inch of water into a pan slightly bigger than your card,. With a knife, scrape chalk dust off a few colors onto the surface of the water. Lower the paper flat onto the surface of the water to pick up the color, immediately lifting the cardstock back out of the water. Allow the cardstock dry flat. If your paper develops puckers, it can be ironed to flatten it back out. You can even press the paper between heavy books to flatten it out.




Marbled Chalk Background 2:
Chalk and water can be combined for a pastel background effect. Apply chalk in one or more colors randomly to the paper. Using a wet rag or sponge, pull and blend the chalked areas as desired. This technique is an excellent way to add color to freezer paper that will be used for gift wrap or gift bags. Once the background is dry, it can be stamped over, and it does not require spray fixative to remain in place.




Chalk on Dark Paper:
Create stunning designs. Stamp a design using white pigment ink & white embossing powder. Apply chalk with a cotton swab around & in images. Take a paper towel to wipe off excess chalk.




Chalk~Blender Pen:
Chalk colors can be beautifully blended with the blender pen, which also "sets" the chalk, eliminating the need for spray fixative.
Finishing Your Chalked Project: If desired, use a spray fixative or hairspray when finished to keep chalk from smearing. This will also deepen the colors and add sheen. You need only a light coating.




Chalk Popping:
1. Take any bold/solid stamp image & stamp onto cardstock using the Grey Flannel ink pad.
2. Color in & around the image in a light chalk color (ex: light pink for flowers & lime green for leaves, etc.) with a Q-tip or cotton ball.
3. Now go over gray lines again in a darker chalk color (ex: purple for flowers, evergreen for leaves, etc.).
4. Spray with sealer or even with hairspray to set the chalk. (Next steps are optional)
5. Follow along the gray lines again, but with the glue pen this time.
6. Sprinkle with glitter over the glue & shake excess off. You may have to do steps 5 & 6 in sections so the glue doesn’t dry all the way.
This technique gives your work a hand painted look.




SILVER ENCORE GUIDING
1. Stamp bold lined image using Silver Encore Ink.
2. Rub off selected parts of shimmer with pastel-loaded applicator.
Like the Chalk Popping effect where parts of the image shimmers




POPPIN PASTELS – CHALK RESIST – FAUX OIL PASTEL
1. Apply 2 – 3 different colors (that look good together) of light colored chalk with a cottonball (or sponge daubers) across cardstock.
2. Ink up an image with tinted or clear embossing ink (some use white pigment ink for a different look). Stamp image onto the cardstock.
3. Make sure that the ink dries onto the cardstock, when it’s no longer shiny (Natural’s cardstock works best).
4. Apply chalk colors onto the tinted image with Q-Tips or sponge daubers. The chalk will “darken” when it adheres to the ink.
5. Continue to add color, starting with the lightest going to the darkest until you are satisfied.
6. If you are using a 2-Step stamp, go over the image with the second step and repeat the process.
Variation of Poppin’ Pastels
1. Stamp several of the same images with clear embossing ink on white paper. Let dry.
2. Dip a cotton ball into one color of chalk & then lightly rub over & around the images.
3. This creates a great background.
4. Use a dye-base ink pad that matches the color of chalk used. Stamp the same image used before randomly in dye-based ink.




FUN FOAM – ALMOST LEATHER (feels like leather after it’s heated) Fun Foam is a product that is found in craft stores....it’s quite thin & comes in many different colors.
1. For best results use bold image stamps.
2. Cut out a piece that is larger than the image that you have chosen.
3. Heat up the piece of fun foam with a heat tool for about 20 seconds on each side. It will get quite hot & may curl.
4. Stamp your image into the heated foam & press hard (10 seconds). When you remove the stamp the image has made an impression in the foam. If you are not satisfied....reheat & start all over.
5. When you have the image you want....trim around it & adhere to a card or other craft project with mounting tape (double sided foam tape).




Fun FoamVariation:
1. Cut a piece of fun foam to the same size as the block of wood on your stamp.
2. Using a stylus to hold the foam in place on your work surface, heat with your heat gun.
3. After edges curl a bit, stamp design (inked or uninked) into the foam. Let cool. (It feels like leather when cool.)
4. Trim and mount to project.




THUMPING
1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that work best are bold/solid.
2. For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty against the ink pad.
3. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....& “tap” the side of the brush tip on the bold inked image. Repeat with other colors.
Huff on the image & stamp. You now have a multicolored image
(tie-dyed or marbleized look).




DIRTY STAMPING (VARIATION OF THUMPING)
Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that work best are bold/solid.
For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty against the ink pad.
Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....& “tap” the side of the brush tip on the bold inked image. Repeat with other colors.
*Variation:
Take an old watercolor paint brush & pounce over the colors to blend them.
Huff on the image & stamp.
You now have a multicolored image (tie-dyed or marbleized look).




TAG ART
Use of common shipping tags & pricing tags can add a new dimension to an art project or card. Use them in a collage or on it’s own. Can be a great way to embellish your work.




PHOTO POSTCARDS
Materials:
Colorless blending marker with xylene
Black & white copy of original photo - photo can be either color or black & white.
Photocopy paper
black card
Directions:
1. Make a black & white copy of a photograph
2. Position the copy picture side down on the card. When practicing for the first time, it’s best to do the rubbing on plain piece of copy paper. Move to heavier cardstock after you’ve gained some experience.
3. Rub the backside of the photocopy with the blending marker. Note: You will need to go over it a few times to get the best transfer, & remember, everything comes out in reverse.
4. Without lifting the photocopy from the card, gently lift a corner, & peek underneath to see how the transfer is coming along. Sometimes the xylene in the pen will release fibers from the copy paper that look like little spiders. Brush these away with either a finger or the tip of the blender. More often than not, they add an antique look to the finished transfer.
5. If everything looks as you want it, remove photocopy. If not, leave the copy in place, & repeat step 3. After you’re done, the copy is not usable again as a transfer, but you can cut it up & use it as a mask. This is especially helpful if you want to sponge or airbrush around it.
6. Color in the project with markers, colored pencils or airbrush. The paper you transferred onto will determine the best coloring agents. Note: This technique also transfers beautifully onto unfinished wooden boxes, so be sure to experiment with other surfaces, too. Color copies can be transferred as well.




PHOTO STAMPING (as per Suze Weinberg - The Art of Rubber Stamping)
Materials:
Glossy or matte-finished photograph of clouds or water Scenic rubber stamps
Dye-based, permanent or archival-quality ink pad in dark color(s)
Dye-based markers,
sponges or an airbrush
Spray Sealant - optional
Directions:
1. Stamp directly onto the photo surface & allow the ink to settle & dry. Pick stamps with scenic overtones to make the cloud pictures resemble real postcards. Note: Don’t be afraid to mask areas to make the overall design look realistic.
2. When the photo is processed at the lab it is coated with an emulsion. Don’t heat the photo surface with a heat gun in order to speed the drying time of the ink. The heat will cause the emulsion to bubble.
3. After the ink dries, use sponges, markers or an airbrush directly on the surface of the stamped photo to color.
4. Seal the color with a glossy spray sealant if desired.




SPONGING
Cosmetic/Facial Sponges
* Porous Everyday Sponges (celluloid)
* Natural Sponges
* Bathtoy Sponges
There are different methods of use:
Cut & tear sponges for different texture
* Use different amounts of pressure to get darker or lighter effects*
Use sponges either dry or slightly dampened with water *
Tapping, smudging, smearing & circular motions are all ways to get different effects & textures
* Flicking edges of cardstock
1. Sponge around paper masks which you have cut or torn or stencils.
2. Sponge through paper doilies, lace or netting for a delicate Victorian look.
3. Sponge grass in several shades of green & applying different amounts of pressure.
4. Sponge around die-cuts to create a silhouette.
5. Make stencils using a different craft punches - sponge through them.
You can dip your sponges in ink pads or apply color with a marker on your sponge.




CONDENSED SPONGE CARDS
Materials:
small condensed sponge
* stamp pad reinkers
* glossy white paper
* small spray bottle of water
* scratch paper
* gloves optional Steps:
1. Apply ink to both sides of one small sponge
2. Spray lightly with water
3. Place card on larger backup scratch paper to catch excess ink
4. Pull the inked edge of the sponge across the card (be sure to start on the scratch paper) be sure to use one fluid motion or else you will get what I call a hic up. Be sure to begin and end off the paper.
5. Repeat step 4 as needed to achieve the desired look, or pattern. Mist lightly with water to keep the ink flowing smoothly.
Tips:
Use rubber gloves to keep hands clean
Using one fluid motion will give you the best flow of color sponges dry slowly , so take care in handling and storing them.
You can ink up the sponge & spritz the water on the sponge to remoisten the ink. You can also do this with markers on the sponge & pull it across the paper, spritz to remoistened & do it again. You can also place the sponge, inked up, in one place on the cardstock & twist or swirl it.




COMPRESSED SPONGE (variation of condensed sponge technique) Materials:
Stampin’ Write Markers * Compressed sponge * Windex cleaner * Glossy card stock
Steps:
1. Press many different colors of the Stampin’ Write Markers along one cut edge of the compressed sponge.
2. Lightly spritz colored edge of the sponge with a mixture of half water and half Windex.
3. Run edge of sponge over surface of the card to create multi-colored stripes, until the entire card is covered. Add any pre-stamped images if desired.
Experiment with your sponge to produce different effects like squiggles and plaids.




RAINBOW SOOT CARDS
1. Take glossy cardstock & brayer a Kalidacolor rainbow ink across the card.
2. Light a candle & hold it very close to the wick to turn the card “black” with soot.
3. Once it’s covered in soot, I stamp an image (no ink) into the soot. This allows the rainbow colors to show through.
4. Spray seal your work.




SOOT CARDS
Materials:
Candle * Glossy Cardstock * Rubber Stamp
Directions:
1. Light the candle & carefully move the glossy cardstock (glossy side towards flame) over the flame. The flame actually needs to touch the cardstock.
2. If you hold the cardstock at an angle you will get more coverage faster. Be especially careful near the edges & corners, they are most apt to catch fire.
3. When the cardstock is covered with soot to your satisfaction , stamp an uninked stamp onto it. Press firmly but do not wiggle.
4. Lift straight up.
5. Immediately spray card with a spray fixative. Hold the can above the card.....sort of spraying away from the card. Once the stream of spray is coming out evenly move the nozzle toward your card....keeping a 12” distance. If you don’t do this, you’ll get little polka dots form the pressure in the can pushing the soot around on the card.
Note: It’s very difficult to do this on a full size card. It’s recommended that you cover a piece of cardstock with soot, stamp, spray, let dry & then cut out the image & glue it onto another piece of cardstock.




PAPER MACHE PAINTING & STAMPING
Materials:
Assorted Acrylic Paints * Clear Acrylic Sealer Spray (matte &/or glossy) * Sponge Brushes * Heat Tool *Assorted Colors of Fabrico Ink Pads * Assorted Markers * Watercolor Brush * Pastels * Embellishments * Glue
Directions:
1. Spray seal the paper mache with a clear acrylic sealer spray. Let dry.
2. Cover entire surface with acrylic paint. Paint several (3-4) coats & let dry in between each coat. Let final coat dry.
3. Stamp images in Fabrico Real Black. Heat set with heat tool.
4. Take a lightly wet paint brush & dip it into the Fabrico ink pads to “paint in each color”. Heat set with heat tool. The colors that were painted in will seem faded.
5. Shade with markers - watercolor method. The Fabrico inks seem to help the markers go on without streaks & shading the markers make the colors more vibrant. You can also apply the marker directly to the painted Fabrico surface.
6. To bring out the images you can chalk around them.....blues or gray. Apply a little color of red pastel for cheek color. 7. Lightly spray seal the whole object & let dry.
8. Add embellishments. Hot glue bows or buttons for a quick & solid adhesion.




ENVELOPES
Materials:
Patterned Tissue Paper * Freezer Paper (located near the wax paper at the store) * Iron * Envelope Template
Directions:
Place the wrong side of the tissue paper to the waxed side of the freezer paper…iron together. The freezer paper fuses to the tissue paper. The paper is now sturdy enough to make an envelope out of it using the envelope templates.
Variation:
Before placing tissue paper on to the freezer paper... wad it up creating wrinkles/texture and then flatten out and iron onto the freezer paper. Adds another dimension to your paper/envelope.
Tips:
Make enough of the tissue/freezer paper for gift wrap. It always makes a great impression when the gift wrap and envelope match. And it looks nice, too!




ENVELOPE GLUE
1 package Unflavored Gelatin * 1 Tbs. Cold Water * 3 Tbs. Boiling water * ½ tsp. White Corn Syrup or Sugar * ½ tsp. Lemon or Vanilla Extract
1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften for 5 minutes. Pour in the boiling water & mix until dissolved. Add corn syrup & extract & mix well.
2. Brush thin coating on envelope flap. Let dry.
To store put in closed container in the refrigerator. To use again microwave for 20 seconds on High. Check for brushability.




BACKGROUND STAMPS/ENVELOPES
If you stamp the envelopes with the background stamps (lace or plaid) you can coordinate them with your cards. If you mask a rectangle in the front, like in the portfolio, you will have an area to write the mailing address. This would work well in a demo as well to sell the background stamps. Consider using background papers to make envelopes if you don’t feel like stamping them.




VELLUM ENVELOPES
Simply use one of the envelope templates with a sheet of vellum!
CELLO BAG ENVELOPES
You can address the “back: of your card, instead of writing handstamped by. Put the card into a cello bag. Use the 6x8 cello bag. Cut 2" above the card and 1/2" angle to flap over and seal with tape. Also make sure your postage is on the outside of the bag not on the card.
DOILY ENVELOPES
Use one of the 8” doilies to make beautiful dainty envelopes for hand-delivery…or place inside a cello envelope to mail.




BAGALOPE – ENVELOPE GIFT BAG – ENVELOPE TOTE
Standard Size Envelopes * Decorative Scissors * Hole Puncher * Rubber Stamps * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape
1: Seal the envelope closed.
2: Using decorative scissors, cut off one short side of the envelope.
3: Score along all three edges - equal on all three edges. Make acrisp crease by folding the score line both ways.
4: Stamp and decorate now - allow inks, etc. to dry.
5: Open the cut edge.
6: Fold the scored edges inwards (valley folds - look at a grocery bag or other bag of that type to get an idea).
7: The bottom of the bag will form two points at bottom sides. Use Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape to tack down the two points & press to the bottom of bag.
8. You can make a handle to attach to the bag or you may punch a couple of holes on the front of the bag & string ribbon or raffia to form a bow to close the bag.
PURSE-A-LOPE
1. Fold gussets on 3 sides of an envelope (sturdier ones work the best).
2. Fold over the 2 sides & bottom - ½ “ to ¼” wide.
3. Fold back & forth for a strong, burnished crease.
4. While flat stamp your purse as desired.
5. Put your hand into the envelope & turn it into a purse by making the sides stand out as gussets & the bottom into a purse bottom.
6. Fold the bottom triangles under & glue or tape them down.
7. Fold the envelope flap over the top. Use a hold punch to make 2 half circles at the top of the purse. Thread a piece of ribbon through the holes & tie inside the purse.
8. After putting a small gift inside the purse you can seal the flap closed, or use a small piece of Velcro to close.




FLOCKING
Apply adhesive only to the area that you wish to cover with flocking. Craft glue is recommended for the most durable adhesion.
For a thin layer of flocking, brush on a thin even layer of glue and sprinkle flocking. For a thick layer of flocking, use a thicker layer of glue and sprinkle a heavy layer of flocking. Gently press the flocking into the adhesive and then sprinkle on a second layer of flocking.
Let the surface dry thoroughly before handling. When dry, excess flocking may be returned to the container. A little goes a long way.




VELVET PAPER
Peel backing from sticker paper. Lay paper on work surface sticky side up. Pour flocking onto sticky side, then press flocking with fingertips for best coverage. Pour off excess….then stamp.




FOILED GIFT WRAP
1. Emboss an open image without a lot of detail (like balloons, hearts, flowers, jar, cauldron, Star of David, etc.) onto the front of a card. Use Black Colorbox & Clear Emboss Powder.
2. Stamp the same image onto plain foiled holiday gift wrap, simply using a dye-based ink. You can cut out the whole image or parts of it…depending on the look you want to go for. Cut on the “inside” line of the image.
3. Glue the foiled piece or pieces inside the embossed image on the card.




BUBBLE BACKGROUND
There are two variations to this technique….see which one you would like to try.
Method #1
1. Put detergent into a bowl & toss ink on top of it.
2. Stick a straw in & blow bubbles onto your cardstock, letting the bubbles pop onto the card.
3. The cardstock does not have to be glossy….however that does work best.
Method #2
1. Brayer a color onto glossy paper.
2. Take a small bottle of bubbles & blow bubbles in the air.
3. Try to “catch” the bubbles with your brayered cardstock.
4. It works best when you blow the bubbles immediately after you’ve brayered your background.




COOKIE CUTTER
1. Make your own die cuts.
2. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your cardstock with a pencil….follow the line with a marker or metallic marker. Stamp around or inside your cookie cutter shape.
3. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your card. Cut out the shape with a craft knife…to make a shaped window.
Make a shaped note card, using the cookie cutter shape as your outline.




CLASSIC BLOCK STAMPING ~ SHADOW STAMPING
First of all shadow stamping is the name applied to a certain line of stamps by Hero Arts. They have various sizes of Shadow Stamps. Basically it’s a square or rectangular solid block of rubber (although unusual shapes can be found)….the edges are unique as they aren’t perfect….almost a torn look. You stamp in a soft muted color (such as dye pad or even an Encore metallic ink)…..stamp off some of the excess on a scratch sheet of paper. Then stamp onto card. Some of you have already been doing something like this with our Two-Step stamp sets! You can do something like this with excess rubber that you’ve cut from your stamps too. From there, there are various techniques that can be done. The techniques below are from the Hero Arts website. Basically this is the classic coupling of solid block and open line images.
Basics
1. Consider the size to the shadow stamp that you have (or made). If you plan to stamp a smaller image inside the shadow the size must fit into the shadow….the shadow stamp “frames” your image. Stamp a few blocks together….then stamp a larger image that will fit on all the blocks.
2. To get different grades of color….use a 2nd or 3rd impression….the shadow gets increasingly lighter as you stamp. Stamp on scratch paper first & then stamp without reinking onto your card. Once your impression dries, it has a nice marbled and beautifully textured background quality with just a hint of the soft wash of Shadow Ink color.
3. You have now stamped a “shadow” onto your card. The next step is to add the image of your choice “inside” the shadow. Black ink works best to best emphasize your image…although any saturated color works fine. You will see the soft muted shadow subtly but elegantly emphasizes any image you stamp inside of it. Shadows make a great backdrop for highlighting any fine etching or bold stamped image.




Different Techniques for Shadow Stamping
Plain Shadow
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp. Ink second stamp design onto stamped shadow.
Edges Only
Ink edges only on the shadow stamp. Use edges of pad, Dauber Duos, or markers.
Shadow in a Shadow (Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink, but do not stamp. Take smaller uninked shadow and press into center of inked shadow stamp. Ink will be removed from center area. Stamp onto paper. Area in middle will be lighter and slightly framed. Stamp design of your choice in center.
Monoprint (Another Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take clean, uninked stamp and stamp onto inked area. Clean off stamp each time you take ink off. Stamp onto paper to get your monoprint.




Textures
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp onto corrugated cardboard. Slightly turn stamp and stamp again. Grid design will be on your inked area. Stamp shadow onto paper and pattern will appear.
Stamp on Stamps
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take a smaller stamp and ink in a darker color. Randomly stamp onto first stamp. Stamp onto paper and pattern will appear.
Stylus Designs
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take stylus or pencil and draw into inked area on stamp. Stamp onto paper and patterns you’ve drawn will appear.
Shadow, Shadow, Shadow
Ink first shadow and stamp. Ink smaller shadow and stamp diagonally. Ink third shadow and turn again. Ink stamp of your choice on top of all three.
(Block/Shadow Stamps can be found at: Hero Arts, Impress Rubber Stamps, Magenta, A Stamp in the Hand, Stampers Anonymous & Rubber Tree Stamps. But remember….you can always make your own out of excess rubber!)




WET AND DRY EMBOSS
1. Stamp an outline stamp with the Basic Black ink pad & let dry completely.
2. Use a wet Q-tip and go around edge of the outline. Place on your mouse pad & trace outline with stylus.
3. Turn over and use the wet Q-tip again to moisten inside the outlined area. Use your stylus to “color” in the wet area (inside the outline). This makes the image “pop up” on the right side of your project.
4. Allow to dry. Color in with pastels &/or embellish with glitter.




DRY EMBOSSING – BLIND EMBOSSING – PAPER EMBOSSING – DEBOSSING
Materials:
Lightbox * Stencil (plastic or brass) * Stylus Tool * Stencil Tape/Drafting Tape * Cardstock /Vellum Cardstock
Directions:
1. Tape or place stencil in place over a lit lightbox. Position card over desired image on stencil. You’ll see the shape though your cardstock.
2. Use a stylus tool to trace around perimeter of stencil shape, creating raised or recessed effect around your stamped image. Pressing from the front of your card makes a recessed pattern. Pressing from the back makes a raised pattern.
Debossing Metal:
You can also “deboss” a thin sheet of metal.
1. Sandwich a metal sheet between two identical stencils and line it up. Wrap tape around top and bottom edges of the stencil pair to hold layers. Press the stylus along the stencil pattern to "deboss" the design into your card. Use all or part of a stencil pattern to deboss.
2. You can also stamp on one side of the metal sheet (.36 gauge copper metal – found in a roll – may find in sheets?) with black ink. Use an image that is not extemely detailed. Take a stylus & follow the pattern. On the reverse side you will have a raised image.




METAL EMBOSSING (Debossing)
Sheets of metal Aluminum-medium weight or Copper -light weight Outline Stamp of Choice
Tissue Paper
Black ink
1. Cut small piece of metal to fit stamp.
2. Stamp with black ink on tissue paper or vellum.
3. Place metal on soft surface or rubber mat.
4. With fine point of stylus lightly trace image of stamp onto reverse side of metal. For a puffy embossed design lightly trace image in metal several times.
5. Emboss into puffy areas with eraser end of pencil or other smooth end like a Bic stick pen, you can push inside of stamped image.
6. Cut out design and apply to card or project with adhesive.
7. To add permanence (so it won't be crushed) fill in the back of the design with plaster, wax or resin.
8. To add color or a patina, apply paint before mounting. After a few minutes, rub off dry and polish. Varnish is optional.
Note: This technique can also be down with 4 to 5 layers of the thick of extra strength aluminum foil. You will have to secure each layer with an adhesive. Roll the cut edges to hide the layered cuts.
Also remember to work on a soft smooth surface as the metal will pick up any creases, dips or raised impressions.




FOIL STAMPING (variation of Metal Embossing)
Extra Strength Aluminum Foil or Disposable Pie Tin/Roasting Pan
* Rubber Stamps
If you are using extra strength aluminum foil…layer your foil, making 4-5 layers thick. You will have to secure each layer with a spray adhesive. Before stamping you must make sure the foil is smoothed out (use a credit card or scraper). Stamp your image on the “reverse” side of the foil (the non-shiny side)….use a dye-based ink…doesn’t matter what color. After stamping, place foil on a magazine or cushioned surface like a mouse pad.
On the same side that you stamp, use a stylus/embossing tool to follow your design lines. If you are using a word or greeting stamp, you will need to stamp it first onto thin paper, then flit it over & trace on the reverse/mirror image side….otherwise your words will read backwards.
With the stylus you are pushing the design through to the front of the foil, you get the elegant look of raised embossing on a metallic surface.
Finished foil pieces can be trimmed with decorative scissors & glued to fronts of cards. They look stunning with a window cut out of the front to fit the image too.
Other Ideas:
1. Color in images with permanent markers, outline a bold stamp & then fill in the background with little squiggles, lines, dashes, etc.
2. If you don’t have extra strength aluminum foil…you can use the bottom of a disposable pie tin or roasting pan.




CORK STAMPING
You can find cork in craft stores, some stamp stores & even an automotive store!
1. Stamp your image with Basic Black Ink Pad (if using an outline image).
2. Color in with markers. Because the cork soaks up a lot of ink….you will have to blot the ink many times. Let dry.
3. You may cut around the image with decorative scissors or regular scissors.
4. Hot gluing the cork, when layering, is the best way to adhere the cork to your card.




SHAKER CARD~Foam Core
Supplies:
Piece of foam core cut to the size of card * Piece of card stock for back * Piece of decorative paper or one you've made for front of card
* Piece of acetate * Confetti or other for filling * Ribbon * Stamps * Glue * Craft Knife * Markers * Pencils for Coloring Images
1. Cut the foam core to the card size, then using a stamp positioner, stamp the outside image on it. Cut out the hole just a bit larger than the image size. (If you prefer you can just cut a simple shape as per your final outside decoration needs.)
2. Stamp the image on a decorative or plain piece of paper or cardstock that you have stamped. Carefully cut out the center just a bit smaller than the image itself. (This is for the outside of the card.)
3. Stamp the inside on the card stock so it will be seen through the hole in the foam core. (The easiest way to do that is to use a pencil & trace through the hole very lightly as a guide, then erase it after stamping.)
4. Glue the foam core to the card so the inside image will show through the hole & put in the confetti & glitter. Then glue a piece of acetate over it.
5. Glue the decorative piece over all of that & put a ribbon around the sides to hide the ugly edges of the foam core.




SHAKER CARD~Cardstock
Supplies:
1/2 sheet card stock (folded)
1/4 sheet card stock (cut slightly smaller)
1/4 sheet acetate
Confetti
Stamps
1. You can make a shaker card using a stamp that has a large opening in it such as the center of a frame stamp. Or you can cut out the lower body part of the snowman in the “Let it Snow” set and stuff him full of glitter and fake snow.
2. Stamp and emboss image on the front of the (folded) ½ sheet of card stock. Also at this time emboss or stamp any other images to the front of the card.
3. With an craft knife, cut out the inside of the embossed image, so that you have a hole (opening)
4. Use monoadhesive to attach the acetate to the inside of the front of the card.
5. Use foam mounting tape to make a “barrier” around the acetate covered opening. Being careful as to not let the mounting tape show through to the front side. You need this barrier to keep the confetti, glitter or beads in.
6. Add beads, confetti or glitter. You can even add stamped images or shrink plastic, seeds and herbs. What you can add is limited to your imagination.
7. Before the next step, you can stamp or emboss the ¼ sheet of card stock with a greeting that would show through the window. 8. Now, peel off the backing to the mounting tape and attach your ¼ sheet of card stock.
Before attaching the ¼ sheet of card stock, make sure to look to see if it was upside down or not.




WATER CARD SEAL A MEAL CARD
(Note: You will need an item called Seal-A-Meal or Eurosealer to do this project)
Materials:
Bag Sealer * Plastic bag/rolls used for sealing liquids and ...foods * water or other liquids such as shampoo, hair gel, etc. * mylar confetti or small trinkets such as flat ...beads, small shells, sand, etc. * cardstock or blank cards * utility knife * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape * Rubber Stamps * Food Coloring (optional)
Directions:
Step 1: Form the pouch (using your bag sealer and plastic) with three sealed sides (2"X3" is a good size).
Step 2: Fill the pouch with a small amount of water or liquid - you only need about 1-2 tablespoons. Add your confetti or small trinkets to the pouch. For a touch of color, use food coloring unless you’re using colored hair gel!
Step 3: Carefully press the air out of the pouch and seal the remaining side, forming a fully enclosed, fairly flat pouch with the liquid & confetti completely sealed inside. Make sure you have no leaks!
Step 4: Make your card if necessary, fold your cardstock to form a card. Decorate your card however you wish with rubber stamps, etc.
Step 5: On the front of your card, cut out a small window with your utility knife. The size of the window should be smaller than the size of your pouch.
Step 6: Assemble the card and pouch: tape the edges of your sealed pouch to the inside of the card so that your pouch shows through the window that you cut in the front of the card. Use glue or double-stick tape to seal closed the edges of your card. You are done! Shake your card to see the confetti float across the window in the card.
Note: If you intend to send this card through the mail, its best to enclose the card in a padded and protected mailer to avoid getting your card "popped" by the automatic letter handling machines. You want your recipient to receive an ultra cool water card, not a soggy mess!




STICKER PAPER
1. Stamp images on sticker paper and color if needed with markers. Cut out images and place on top of brayered backgrounds.
2. Brayer on a piece of sticker paper, then stamp an image that is open (like a vase, Easter egg, balloon, etc.)…cut out and layer.




MONOCHROMATIC
This means using 1 color. Design a card that uses cardstock, ink pad & marker of the same color….using white or another neutral color to show contrast. You may stamp an image in Basic Black, color image in with one color, flick edges with the same color & layer onto the same colored cardstock. Very simple.




PAPER TOLE
Paper tole is an art technique in which part or all of an image is raised from the surface to give a 3 dimensional effect which enhances the natural shape of the image. For example, this technique can be used to emphasize the curved petals of a flower or the rounded curve of a balloon, apple or strawberry. Three basic types of paper tole techniques used with rubber stamping: Simple Tole 1: A duplicate of an image is stamped on a different paper, colored and carefully cut out. This duplicate is then mounted on top of the original with foam mounts, causing it to be raised. One or more pieces of foam mount can be applied, depending on the height desired.




Simple Tole 2:
Part of an image is carefully cut out and lifted from the surface of the card to give it "life." For example, a butterfly wing or a few petals from a flower can be lifted out. A piece of matching or contrasting cardstock can be glued to the back of your work to fill the cut areas. A simple way to tole an entire large flower is to stamp and color a duplicate image, cut out the petals up to the center, fold or curl outward, and glue the center of the flower onto its original with rubber cement.




True Paper Tole:
Each element of a duplicate image is cut out separately with an X-acto® knife, curved or curled, and reapplied directly over the original. This creates a sculptured, layered, three dimensional effect.
True Paper Tole
Rubber Stamps (Bold images work best)
* Scissors
* hot glue gun
* Spoon
* Pen
* Paintbrush handle (You will use these for curling and curving pieces.)
Basic Technique:
1. Stamp out the desired image on the front of your card and color it.
2. Stamp out and color an identical image on a separate piece of cardstock.
3. Cut out all (or some) of the design elements from your duplicate image.
4. For designs with many pieces, number a copy of the original and your duplicate pieces to match. This will help you to find the right position for your pieces.
5. Color over the edge of your cut pieces to hide the white cut marks.
6. Curve or curl each individual piece around the edge of a spoon, the tip of a pen, the handle of a small paintbrush, or simply press it into the palm of your hand. Try to make the curves realistic for the design.
7. Apply hot glue to the underside of each curved piece. Make it as high as you wish to raise the image. The curve of the piece will hide the hot glue.
8. Attach each cut out piece to the corresponding place on the original stamped design on your card. A tweezers or toothpick will help you to position it. Begin working with the bottom or back layers first and build toward the front or top.




HOMEMADE RUBBER STAMP INK
Powdered Clothes Dye (any color)
1/4 Teaspoon Alcohol
5 Tablespoons Glycerin
Mix dye with alcohol to the consistency of thin cream. Add glycerin. Stir until well blended. This makes enough to replenish a stamp pad several times. Pour ink over stamp pad or a foam-rubber pad that is fine grained. To make the stamp pad you will need foam rubber and a small plastic box with lid (such as a travel soap box). Cut the foam rubber to fit inside the plastic box. Spread the ink evenly with a brush or a tongue depressor.




HOMEMADE TRANSFER INK
Use this ink to transfer designs printed with your computer printer or copy machine. You can transfer to things too small to fit into your printer or just won't go into your printer, like fabric or big poster boards. Use your imagination. Try the cartoon section of you newspaper. Just remember whatever you transfer will be the reverse image, lettering will be printed in reverse.
Note: transfer ink works well with inkjet printers and copy machines but not at all with laser printers. 2 tablespoons of soap powder, Ivory Snow of soap bar scrapings. Do not use detergent
1/4 cup hot water
1 tablespoon turpentine
Combine the soap powder and the hot water in a small jar. Stir until dissolved. Add the turpentine. Remember don't use the same tablespoon you use for cooking. Let the transfer ink cool before using or putting the lid on the jar.
To transfer a design. Start with a freshly printed design. Avoid using one that has been printed weeks or months prior to project. Use a paintbrush and brush the ink over the picture to be transferred. Wait 10 seconds. Place the object to be transferred to on top of the picture or you could do it in reverse and place the picture on top of the item to be transferred. Rub firmly with the back of a spoon. Lift a corner to check if the design has transferred when completely transferred lift off completely, stand back and admire.
Storage: You may store the transfer ink unrefrigerated forever! If the ink solidifies just bring it back to a liquid state by placing the jar in a warm pan of water. Shake well and you're ready to use it again.




MARBLED TISSUE PAPER
Materials:
Standard Tissue Paper
* Dye Inks Refills
* Spritz Bottles
* Thinned White Glue
* Fine Glitter
* Small Glass Containers (baby food jars)
* Droppers (like for medicine)
* Blow Dryer
* Old Newspaper or Protective Covering
Preparation:
1. Crinkle tissue paper in a wadded ball then flatten out with your hands.
2. Dilute inks with water to your preference of shading in a spritzer bottle.
3. In small glass containers sprinkle glitter & add thinned white glue & water.
4. Spread newspaper or protective covering over the area you will be working on.
Directions:
1. Lay out a sheet of tissue paper.
2. Spray your various colors of ink that you’d like on the paper.
3. Dry with a standard blow dryer whenever your paper gets too wet to handle.
4. Using a dropper, squirt the glitter/glue solution randomly on the paper.
5. Continue to dry the sheet completely & put aside as you move on to the next sheet.
6. Playing & experimenting with combinations of colors is what makes this so much fun.
When you’ve finished with your projects & your papers are dry, press lightly with an iron & fold or roll to store.




TISSUE STAMPING~DECOUPAGE
1. Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too). Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
2. If using outline images….color images with markers or colored pencils. Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
3. Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative….this will keep colors from bleeding. Tear out images, as if to do a collage or use one piece of tissue that will fit the glass object.




GLASS:
1. With a sponge brush apply white tacky glue to glass votive or other glass candle holder.
2. When tissue is in place, apply glue to entire glass piece. 3. Sprinkle Dazzling Diamonds glitter all over the glass & let dry.
4. Put a round piece of felt on the bottom. The candle light will really dazzle.
(You can use rainbow ink pads too….be sure to use a spray fixative or a fast drying adhesive)




TISSUE STAMPING ~CANDLE
Materials:
Candle (votive or pillar)
Tissue Paper (color matches candle)
Ink Pads, Markers or Colored Pencils
2-Way Glue Pen
Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too). Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
If using outline images….color images with markers or colored pencils. Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative….this will keep colors from bleeding.
Cut or tear the image out of the tissue paper….leaving ¼ to ½ inch all the way around.
On the ¼ to ½ inch excess tissue dot here & there with 2-Way Glue. This will keep the tissue in place & will not blow away when you use your heat tool.
Heat the tissue enough to just melt the tissue into the wax. Keep the heat tool moving & not too close….so as to not create too many ripples or drip marks in the wax.
Other Tips:
Some people like to use a heated spoon to press onto the tissue….to get the wax to melt into it. When you think the image is fully embedded in wax…take an old nylon stocking & rub over the entire area. It will smooth out any ridges in the wax.
Practice on a candle to get the feel of doing this & then do the real thing.




GOLD-LEAF STAMPING
Faux Gold Leaf
* Duo Embellishing Adhesive Glue & Brush (brand name) or Faux Gold Leafing Glue
* Stiff Brush
* Any Desired Item with a Smooth Surface
Instructions:
1. Brush glue onto the stamps, then stamp onto smooth surface. Apply a generous amount of gold leaf to glue design. Make sure to cover every portion of stamped design with gold leaf. Repeat until design is covered with gold leaf.
2. Immediately wash the stamp to remove the glue. Wait for glue to dry.
3. Brush away excess leafing using a stiff brush.




SHRINK PLASTIC
Oven Method:
1. Lightly sand shrink plastic with a fine grade sand paper eliminating any shiny spots. Failure to remove shiny spots will cause bleeding of colors.
2. Wipe surface with a damp cloth or tack cloth to get rid of grit & dry thoroughly.
3. Stamp image with Fabricos. Black for outline stamps & all colors for bold stamps., stamp the image onto the sanded side of the shrink plastic. Let the ink dry for a few minutes, then turn over & blot on a porous type paper (like newsprint). The image will appear lighter. Shrinking will make the image darker.
4. Color as desired with any are medium (colored pencils, chalks, markers, etc.) Some colors of colored pencils look very different after shrinking, especially reds. Coloring need not be perfect. There is no need to go all the way to the edge. Shrinking will intensify colors & small imperfections will disappear. Color on a scrap. Then, shrink it to insure the color desired. Avoid smudging after coloring by heat setting colors with a blow dryer on warm setting.
5. Cut the image out & punch any holes that are needed. Place on a non-stick baking sheet that has been sprinkled with baby powder.
6. Bake in a 300 degree oven until shrinking is complete. The finished product will be about the thickness of a nickel. Some curling during the baking process is normal.
7. Remove from the baking sheet using a spatula and flatten to cool. The colors will become more intense as the plastic shrinks.
8. Spray seal to protect your images.
Heat Tool Method:
1. Gently rough up polyshrink with sandpaper. Lightly ink stamp with black Fabrico, blot once onto scratch paper & stamp image in center of polyshrink.
2. Use blow dryer for faster drying (heat setting the Fabrico). When ink is dry, color in with any medium as stated above. 3. You may cut the image out with decorative scissors or regular scissors….depending on the project.
4. Using a heat tool, heat image until it flattens. The polyshrink will curl when heated and can be easily held in one place with the eraser tip of your pencil or stylus. While image is still warm from the heat, press the wooden side of the stamp on it to flatten.
5. Be sure to spray seal for protection.
To glue shrink plastic to pin backs or cardstock….you can use E-6000 Adhesive or hot glue.




GOLD BUFFED SHRINK PLASTIC
1. Draw a design on shrink plastic with a permanent marker. An outline shape with no details.
2. Cut this shape out & color with watercolors.
3. Paint about 4 different watercolors in a random fashion all over…layer the colors a little. A light wash will do, color intensifies as the plastic shrinks.
4. Bake on a shrink plastic baking board (craft store buy) with baby powder under the plastic to keep it from sticking to the board.
5. After the plastic is finished shrinking QUICKLY remove from oven. *DO NOT remove from board.
6. Take a deeply etched rubber stamp & press it firmly into the shrink plastic. Press until the plastic cools.
7. Now you have your stamp design impressed into the plastic. If it doesn't come out, you can put the shrink plastic back into the oven & reheat. The image should flatten back out & then you can re-stamp again.
8. Take Gold Rub-N-Buff (craft store buy), go over the tops of the image.
9. Seal with a spray sealer.
*Removing the shrink plastic from the shrink plastic baking board can cool the shrink plastic too quickly to impress the image. Let it remain on the board as you stamp in the image.
It was mentioned – but hadn’t been done yet, to try Gold Encore instead of the Rub –N – Buff. Encore may not hold up to the spray sealer on Shrink Plastic? Experiment. The gold brings out the image with a nice watercolor background.
Suggestions: You can make pins, necklaces, earrings, etc. Just be sure to punch your holes before shrinking so you can add jump rings for jewelry.




CLAY POTS
1. Spray the clay pot with a sealer spray, lightly.
2. You can paint the base of the pot with acrylic paint or leave plain.
Stamp your image (bold works best) in a Fabrico pad & apply to pot. Be careful as the pots are curved and it's a little tricky keeping the stamps from sliding and stamping in the position you want. So go slow. When using the Fabrico…you need to heat set the clay pot. Heat set the clay pots with a hair dryer, heat tool or even in your oven (10 to 15 Minutes). It gets very hot! Be careful.
You may also use acrylic paint to stamp with instead of the crafters ink. Take a sponge brush & apply it to your stamp. Make sure you don't use too much paint. Also, keep the paint from drying on your stamps. Take a shallow dish & fill it with folded paper towels & get them very moist with water. When using a few different stamps with acrylic paint….place the stamps face down on the damp paper towels. It keeps the paint from drying on your stamps. When cleaning your stamps use a soft toothbrush and water in case the paint gets in the crevices.
You can emboss your images with pigment ink or Fabrico ink pads and clear powder.
For extra protection you may want to seal the clay pot when finished. For a glossy look….spray with glossy sealer.




TILE STAMPING
1. Purchase single finished tiles from hardware store (some like to sand it a bit to roughen it up or buy a matte finished tile).
2. Stamp on tiles using Fabrico ink pads.
3. Bold images work best, like Definitely Decorative. If doing 2-Step Stamping on them, you may opt to dry the ink a bit before adding the second layered image.
4. Stamp and decorate any way you wish.
5. Place tile in oven preheated to 350 degrees. Heat for 15 minutes and the ink will be dry and heat set.
6. Spray with clear glaze...puts a nice shiny coat on & brightens everything up!
Coaster:
Add self-adhesive felt squares to each corner if using for a coaster!
Decoration:
Use a little easel and display like you would a collector's plate!




PEARL EX
Although we don’t sell this medium…many demonstrators love to play with it. You can buy this in an arts & crafts store or in a rubber stamp store. What is Pearl Ex? Pearl Ex is a mica-based dry pigment. Because it is mica-based, Pearl Ex has a pearlescent look that is very light and ethereal. Pearl Ex is heat resistant, acid free, non-toxic, non-tarnish, non-rusting, and embossable.
Pearl Ex & Watercoloring - Use with gum arabic (1/4 part gum arabic to 1 part Pearl Ex). The gum arabic is a binder and helps the Pearl Ex adhere to the cardstock. Mix in water to get the consistency desired and “paint” image with a brush. Let dry & spray seal. These paints will have a “sheen” to them, & the interference & duo colors will surprise you. If you don’t use up all the paint you made, keep it, & just add water the next time. Experiment with different ratios of gum arabic to Pearl Ex. This can be used on matte or glossy cardstock. Or try this….Paint your design using watercolors as usual. While paint is still wet, use your brush to pick up some Pearl Ex & apply to the painted area. Try dotting small amounts here & there, or spreading it around for different effects.
Pearl Ex & Background Paper - After using for watercoloring, don't discard the water and residue. Use it to paint or sponge on cardstock. Or, let the water dry out leaving the Pearl Ex/gum arabic. You can just add water at another time to use again.
Stamping with Pearl Ex - Mix the Pearl Ex with gum arabic and water. Using a wide paint brush, paint the Pearl Ex onto your stamp. Works best with solid stamps. Or simply rub Pearl Ex onto your stamp surface & stamp on paper. Spray seal to fix it. For dramatic effects….stamp on dark colored cardstock using clear embossing ink. Brush Pearl Ex on the ink…it sticks. Seal with spray sealer.
Pearl Ex & Layer Embossing - After 3 to 4 layers of embossing ink and powder, stamp image into last hot layer (coat stamp first with clear embossing ink). After cooling, rub Pearl Ex into crevices. Also, you can sprinkle the Pearl Ex on the last layer before heating.




Pearl Ex & Chalking - Use Pearl Ex dry, like a chalk. Rub it on the cardstock, with your finger, to create a metallic sheen and to highlight. Spray seal it with a acrylic sealer or even hairspray works .
Pearl Ex & Mica Tiles - Mix Pearl Ex with Perfect Paper Adhesive and put a dollop on the back of a mica tile. You can use more than one color. Smush the tile around on the cardstock, add glitter, mica flakes, beads, etc. to embellish. The mica tile can be embossed before using - looks really cool with fish or other more masculine images.
Pearl Ex Brushed - Stamp image with an Encore Pigment pad onto dark cardstock. Using a soft brush (cosmetic brushes work great), apply Pearl Ex gently to the image, using one or several colors (clean brush between colors). Use the soft brush to gently brush off excess Pearl Ex. If you mixed Pearl Ex colors, save it to use with embossing, etc. Seal with acrylic sealer.
Pearl Ex & Paperclay
Rub Pearl Ex on to create highlights. Spray with acrylic sealer.




REVERSE STENCIL – REVERSE MASK
This is something that you would do when you want to put a “larger” stamp inside a “smaller” stamp…..example: Using a reverse stencil of a jar.
Directions:
Find a stamp with a large open area
Stamp this image on a piece of scratch paper. Cut out the open area, on the “outline” of the image, with a craft knife. You now have a “stencil” of the rubber stamp!
1. Stamp the image on front of the card.
2. Place your stencil over the stamped image….aligning the stencil on the image.
3. Take the next stamp image & stamp it in the stenciled image. Remove the stencil….you have now stamped the larger image to fit inside the stamped image on your card.




PAPERCLAY
1. Prepare Paperclay® by rolling it out or flattening it to about 1/4" thick. Make sure the surface is level so that you get a good even stamp. Flattening with the back of a very large wooden stamp works well for achieving a perfectly flat surface.
2. Rolling out Paperclay® on plastic wrap or waxed paper makes it easier to handle Paperclay®.
3. Pigment inks or Fabrico fabric markers work best for stamping in Paperclay® . Watercolor inks will tend to bleed and leave a blurry image.
4. After rolling out the Paperclay®, load stamp with ink and stamp into the moist Paperclay®.
5. To cut out the stamped images from the flattened Paperclay® you can use scissors and cut it like you would paper. Also you may want to try turning a drinking glass upside down and using it like a cookie cutter to cut perfect circles.
6. Another method for cutting shapes out of the flattened Paperclay® is to use a toothpick and trace around the stamped image pressing the toothpick in at a 45 degree angle.
7. Any rough edges can be smoothed with your finger and a drop of water.
8. Leave the stamped Paperclay® figures out to air dry hard for a day or so. If you're in a hurry, you may put the Paperclay® figures into your kitchen oven at 250 degrees for 15 minutes or until dry.
9. After the Paperclay® has dried you can use fabric markers or any other paint to color in the outline of the stamped image if you wish.
10. You can use embossing powder with Paperclay® by stamping on to a pre-dried piece. Dry Paperclay® is similar to wood. When the stamped figures are completely dry, you can spray on a coat of lacquer to seal and protect them. Clear fingernail polish can also be brushed on to finish the pieces. Be sure to keep any unused Paperclay® in a air-tight bag for future use. If it should become a little dry as you're working with it, or in the bag, you can knead a few drops of water back into it to make it fresh again. If Paperclay® should stick to your stamp just rinse it off with water. After the lacquer or fingernail polish has dried, you can glue earring posts or pin backs on the back of the pieces to create your own unique and wearable stamp art!




BACKGROUND FUN
Take a piece of white copy paper (use a half sheet). Crumple up and open carefully several times. Leaving it pretty wrinkled, lay on a piece of scratch paper and brayer over it. Let dry and iron smooth.




Wax Paper Resist
Take a piece of wax paper and crumple it up, open, and crumple some more. Smooth out the wax paper but leave wrinkles. To iron and create your resist paper layer as follows: white paper, glossy paper (glossy side up), I use post card size pieces, the wax paper, another piece of white paper. Iron, using dry iron, cotton setting. Next brayer over the piece of glossy paper and watch the resist pattern emerge. Try different colors of cardstock for different effects!!




Fusible Web Background
Take a piece of fusible webbing and cut it slightly smaller then the piece of cardstock you are going to use it on. Hold it down at one edge and use your heat gun to melt it a bit so it will stick to the cardstock. A few holes and patterns will begin to form. Don't melt it too much. Then sprinkle all over with embossing powder. You can use one color of embossing powder or several colors. Then heat again moving your heating gun around and around. Patterns and holes will begin to appear and be embossed on the cardstock. Don't hold the heat gun too close or in one place for too long or you will lose some of the nice patterns the webbing forms.




Spiral Background
Take a paper towel and fold in half, again, and again until you have a long narrow folded strip of paper towel. Now take this strip and roll up carefully and secure with a rubberband. Make sure the spiral is even. Ink up the spiral and use just as you would a stamp to create a background.




Rubberband Background
Take a bunch of rubberbands and band together creating a tassel. Cut off the end and you have a wonderful background tool. Try using wider rubberbands but any size will work. Dab into an ink pad and just whack onto a piece of cardstock.
Metallic Backgrounds
Ooze metallic markers on a pallet and dab sponge into metallic juice and dab it all over black cardstock.
Starry Night Background
Apply about 3 drops of Embossing fluid to a clean toothbrush. Turn the brush upside down and use your finger to spray the embossing fluid onto the cardstock. Use a very light hand. You will find that you have a lot more than you expect. Pour embossing powder over, dump and heat.
Salt Background
Spray matte cardstock liberally with water. While still wet, run a brayer loaded with dye ink over the cardstock. Cover with sea salt. If necessary, spray more water on. Allow to dry. When dry, brush the sea salt off.




ACRYLIC PAINT
1. Squeeze small amounts of acrylic paint onto a plate. Apply the paint directly to the stamp using a foam brush. If stamping on fabric mix Fabric Painting Medium with the acrylic paints to keep painted fabric supple.
2. Stamp the image onto smooth fabric, wood, or walls. (When stamping on fabric, you may also use Fabrico pads or markers.) Stamps should be cleaned immediately. After allowing the paint to dry for 24 hours, fabric may be laundered as usual.
(Tip: In a shallow pan, place very moist paper towels at the bottom. When using several different stamps & paints…place the stamp face down on the wet paper towels to keep the paint from drying on your stamps until you’re ready to clean them.)




WALL STAMPING
There were a few variations & tips on this. First of all you can stamp on your walls using acrylic paint or the Fabrico Crafters Ink. A tip: To keep acrylic paint from drying on your stamps. Take a shallow dish & place very damp paper towels. Place the images face down on the towels in-between stamping various images. This keeps the paint moist on your stamp. Be sure to clean your stamps ASAP....keep an old toothbrush handy to aid in getting into tight spots.
You can apply acrylic paint to your image in a few different ways. Try whatever works for you!
A. Put paint on a paper plate. Take a sponge brush & grab a little paint. Sponge paint onto stamp.
B. Take a damp sponge & place on a paper plate. Put paint on a the sponge to use as a “stamp pad”.
C. Fold felt up & put paint on the felt.....use this as a “stamp pad”.
1. Apply paint to stamp & gently stamp the wall with your image. If it messes up....have baby wipes on hand to IMMEDIATELY get the paint off the wall. Try again.




WINDOWPANE
1. Use approximately a 5 x 5 (or smaller) acetate piece. Stamp image(s) on acetate with permanent black ink, let dry.
2. Turn acetate over and put on the back side of acetate a quarter size blob of Diamond Glaze. Spread around with your finger but don't go all the way to the edge (you don't want the Diamond Glaze to smoosh out and stick to your work surface).
3. Use 3-4 colors of re-inkers and drop one drop of each in various spots on the Diamond Glaze. Swirl with your finger to join colors but try not to mix too much.
4. Sprinkle on some gold glitter. Have a piece of white tissue paper cut to a size a little larger than your acetate piece. Wad up tissue, then unfold and pat onto the back of the acetate piece with your finger. Let this dry overnight.
5. Trim to size desired with paper trimmer. Using a gold pen finish off the acetate edges. Layer and mount to card.




COLLAGE
The first step to starting collage is to create a collage box & add any items that could be used in collage work. A collage box will help inspire you by keeping all of your materials in one place. Collage helps you extend your stamp collection by allowing you to add other elements to your stamped work.
Here are examples to get you started:
Worn Out or Cheap Playing Cards * Buttons * Scraps of Ribbon, String and Cord * Beads & Old Costume Jewelry * Scraps of Colored Paper * Cancelled Postage Stamps (soak off paper in water before using) * Sales Tags * Old Road Maps * Cancelled Tickets
The second step is to alter & manipulate those materials….papers maybe sniped or torn & objects can be aged.
To alter color & shading, you can do several things:
A traditional method of coloring & toning would be to add a thin wash of watercolor paint to the paper or object being used. Any black or white images will be infused with a thin transparent color.
Or
Direct to Paper techniques are ideal for “aging” paper or objects & can also be used to emphasize the torn edges of a piece of paper….
Browns & Blacks are good for simulating age & Gold, used sparingly can create a translucent layer of shimmer.
Or
For the greatest amount of control ink can be transferred from the pad to a sponge or stipple brush onto your card or object. Keep layers translucent, so that the original colors beneath are hinted at, adds depth & delicacy to a collage.
The third step is to layer papers…varying them in size & shape. Paste them together to form a patchwork. Edges of paper could be randomly torn or neatly cut.
The final step is stamping. Creative combinations of images are at the very heart of collage.




CERAMIC STAMPING
Pre-Glazed Ceramic item (frame, vase, etc)
Permanent Paint (like…Décor-It from Ranger Industries or Dr. Ph. Martin’s Metal Craft Paint)
Stamps (bold works best)
Pottery sponge, paper towels, spray sealant, solvent-based cleaner, non-porous palette
Instructions:
1. Prepare the ceramic surface by washing it with warm soapy water. Allow to dry completely before decorating.
2. Apply a small amount of paint to a pottery sponge, tapping the excess paint on paper towels.
3. Press sponge onto the ceramic piece with a small amount of pressure. Repeat until object is covered, allowing some of the white ceramic to show through. This has created a background. (You may leave the background white & simply stamp all over the object.)
4. Apply paint to a sponge & tap your stamp onto the sponge. 5. Gently press the stamp onto the ceramic piece to prevent sliding and smudging.
(If smudging occurs, wipe the area clean with a solvent based cleaner and reapply paint.)
6. Spray frame with a sealant to prevent chipping.
Variations:
Add texture to ceramic pieces by stamping your images in pigment ink & embossing with different colored powders. Gently wipe the finished piece with a soft cloth to remove excess embossing powder before sealing.




PUNCHES
Take a 3” square piece of cardstock & punch the middle of it. You’ve made a stencil. Use pigment inks or dye-based inks to sponge through.

Make a stencil as stated above & put the stencil on your skin. Apply an automatic tanning lotion through the stencil to make a “Tan Tattoo” for summer fun!
The rectangle punch is great to thread ribbons….it’s so much easier to thread it through than a tiny hole punch.
Stamp up a whole bunch of images on sticker paper….take the Jumbo Circle Punch to make your own circular stickers.
Make your own “Hand Stamped By” Stickers to use or give as gifts….Stamp them on sticker paper & punch out with the Jumbo Circle Punch.
The Jumbo Circle Punch could be great for making a circular window in a card.
Punch out the face of the Kraft Brown Gingerbread Man shaped die-cut. Put a picture behind it….try using other die-cuts using this method!
Take the Jumbo Punch & punch out photos of your kids & family…..attach them to a card or scrapbook page. Draw or attach embroidery thread to make them look as though they were balloons flying in the air.
Take the Jumbo Punch to punch out birdhouse “doors” , to punch out the middle of a large sunflower, etc.
Punch large holes out of Yo Yo Yellow cardstock & you have the beginnings of a Swiss Cheese card.
Make confetti out of some of the smaller punches & place a bunch in cards.
Fall Stars – take punched out stars & punch a small hole in them. Thread a ribbon through them & have them at the end of each ribbon. Tie a knot at the top…..it’s as if the stars are “falling” from the sky.
Punch hearts on the front of a card. In the inside, behind where the hearts show through, glue glitter for a shimmering effect.
Punch a large circle on the front of the card…..stamp things on the inside that will be peeking out…animals, kids, etc.
When making a border of punched out & glued shapes onto card….have some off the edges & crop them in half. Just as if you would stamp some images off the paper….do this with paper punches. It’s more appealing to the eye.
Punch out 3 paw prints, hearts, etc on a strip of cardstock. Corrugate it for added texture. Slip a fine ribbon & tie it in the center.
Fold a corner down, like at the top of a card….fold it so that is folds onto your other layer of cardstock. On that fold punch out a small shape. The other layer of cardstock will be a different color & it will show though. Adds a little zip to your card.
Take the Jumbo Punch & punch out on yellow cardstock – stamp happy faces on them.
Ladybug: punch one Red circle, and a Black circle. Cut black in half & layer on red. Use smaller circles for dots and head of ladybug.
Port holes or little windows to the inside of the card. Make flowers (ala Mary Englebreight).
Stamp the Christmas ornament stamp from Celebrate the Season, and attaching faces to them punched from photos. Be looking for the right size photos of your family now for this season.
For a hole in the front of a card (usually upper or lower right side) and have a vellum butterfly inside, or something "peeking" out of it.
For Christmas punch out the front of the card to look like tree balls - inside of the card place pictures so the look like they are the tree ball.
Halloween - stamp the trick-or-treaters from a Haunting We Will Go, punch the hole at the ghost's head and put a seasonally wrapped circle chocolate (like coin chocolate) on inside and it fits perfect and comes through to the front. Christmas chocolate coins too with celebrate the season.
3 holes on the front of the card with the Cuddles and Tickles baby "peeking" out from the inside. Party Animals peeking through the holes. Kids at Play giggling girl's face inside the holes.
Cut along the edge of a card with decorative scissors. Take the 1/16" circle punch & go along that edge….for a pretty lace look. The 1/8” size circle punch is the perfect punch to thread smaller ribbon through….when tying a bow, you don’t see the hole. It’s the perfect size.
Soften the edges of photos using the corner rounder punch.
Punches for Borders:
1. Use punches to make a decorative border. Remove sides from corner punches with a screwdriver or edge of scissors. Insert screwdriver into opening and pull towards you to free one side at a time. Do not worry they are designed to come apart and go back together again.
2. Now draw a line on a piece of vellum or card stock and punch on the edge of cardstock carefully lining up edge with pencil line. Punch once, now move to right of first punch lining up the edge with the center of the first punch and the top with your pencil line. Continue to edge of cardstock.
3. Now with hole punches punch various holes in the punch outs to make a lace design. This would work well with the clover corner punch and the tiny scallop and corner lace punches.
Vellum & Punches
1. Punch shapes out of brightly colored paper (anything from the Summer colors) and glue to white cardstock then cover with a vellum overlay for a softer color appearance.
2. Glue punched shapes to the backside of vellum tea-light shades for “wine glasses”, etc.
Tips for Better Punching
1. Punch through foil & then lubricate a sticking punch by punching through wax paper several times.
2. Place a sticking punch in the freezer for 20 minutes to contract & shrink the metal parts.
3. New punches will loosen up with continued use.
4. Tap a sticking punch on the table top to release the mechanism.
5. Stand up when punching to gain more leverage, and always punch down on a hard surface rather than "in the air".
6. Use the punch upside down for more precise placement, and for even more added leverage.
7. The border punches are made to punch paper, not cardstock, so they are somewhat difficult. place the punch (with paper inside) on the floor & step on it to get it to punch through.




FABRICO FABRIC STAMPING
Fabric * Fabrico Ink Pads * Hard Surface * Cardboard * Fabrico Markers * Stamps
Instructions:
1. Wash your fabric without fabric softener, this is to remove 'sizing'.
2. Dry fabric without using a fabric sheet softener.
3. Iron your fabric so you have a nice smooth surface to work with.
4. Find a hard surface to stamp on.
5. If you are stamping on a shirt or bag (or anything with 2 layers), you will need a piece of cardboard to place between the 2 layers of fabric, to avoid it going through the top layer onto the second layer.
6. Ink stamp by tapping the stamp onto the pad. Check for nice, even coverage. Do not press or rub, as this puts too much ink on the stamp.
7. Position onto fabric and apply firm, even pressure. Hold in place for 30-45 seconds. Coarser fabrics like canvas require more pressure.
8. Complete your design.
9. Allow to air dry.
10. Iron either side of fabric to heat-set ink.
11. Wait at least 48 hours before washing.




Cleaning Up:
Clean stamps as soon as possible. Two clean up pads are ideal. Keep one wet and the other dry. Do not let the ink dry on the stamps.
Tips:
Plan design first; play with stamps on paper or an old piece of material. Odd numbers of images, patterning or color are most appealing. If you make a mistake, wash fabric immediately with soap and water. Heat set outline before coloring in with Fabrico markers. Otherwise, you will smear the ink. Use Fabrico markers to touch up stamped image if necessary. Use sponge daubers or sponge to create a colored background. Wash stamped fabric inside out, in cool water and line dry to keep colors their brightest.




FABRICO/Fading on Fabric Solutions:
1. Wash fabric without using fabric softener or dryer sheets.
2. Stamp your images (bold works best). Make sure you keep the stamp pressed down for a little while. You have to give the ink time to sink into the fabric. (Some people let it dry overnight before heat setting.)
Heat Setting – 3 different ways
A. After you stamp (& color if needed), place a sheet of wax paper onto the image. With a warm iron, iron the wax paper onto the fabric. This seals in the colors (this technique was done when “air brushed” T-Shirts were in). You may also iron the wax paper onto the inside of the shirt too.
B. Put your fabric in the dryer on high/cotton setting 15 to 30 minutes.
C. Heat set it with an iron, making sure it is warm enough. Keep the iron moving & in an area for a good 30 seconds. Check carefully so it won’t burn.




DYED RIBBON
Cut ribbon length. Hold ribbon down on open pad with a sponge. Gently pull ribbon end to dye length of ribbon. The more times you run your ribbon through the color, the darker the ribbon becomes. Ink on ribbon will not dry as fast as ink on paper. Blot the ribbon with tissue or paper towel – or place it in a netted bag (like the ones to launder nylons) & place in dryer….then hot glue to card.




BLEACH PAINTING ON CARDSTOCK
1. Emboss an image with black pigment ink & clear powder onto “colored” cardstock. Embossing the image helps to keep the liquid bleach that you are painting with inside the image lines. Let dry for 24 hours or heat with a heat tool for quicker results. You can color in the “white” areas with markers.
2. Take a damp synthetic bristled brush to paint in your images. A synthetic brush is recommended because it won’t get ruined as natural bristles. Be sure to clean your brush under water thoroughly. You may also use a Q-Tip to paint into large areas to be bleached.
There are different bleaches & gels on the market….experiment. Clorox Advantage has been highly recommended.




BLEACHING BACKGROUNDS
Using Q-Tips dipped in bleach….create backgrounds (like swirls in the snow). Use your imagination.
Use a cheap toothbrush & splatter with it.
Experiment with different colored cardstock. You may have to apply bleach more than once in an area. Let dry between coats.




BLEACH STAMPING
Household bleach (the regular kind for laundry)
Dishwasher gel (look for hypochlorites on the label)




Bleach Stamping on Fabric
1. Testing: Test the reaction of bleach on fabric you want to use before you spend a lot of time stamping. Some fabrics don’t bleach well. One reason to test fabric is because it won’t always be white when bleached! Black fabric (& cardstock) in particular can change to many colors. You’ll see a reaction fairly quick….though gel takes longer than liquid bleach. Cheaper fabric is usually better because it’s less colorfast.
2. Safety: You should do this in a well ventilated area. Please be careful if you have respiratory problems. As far as stamps go, there shouldn’t be a problem using bleach on your stamps. Clean them well when done.
3. Gel vs. Liquid Bleach: Liquid bleach tends to bleed & spread. The gel stays put, but takes longer to react & the color change isn’t always dramatic.
4. Stamps: Solid or fairly simple stamps are recommended on fabric.
Instructions:
1. Use a sponge brush to “paint” gel to the stamp. Thinly coat the surface, but try not to gum up the cracks, since this can obscure details. If you are doing a garment, remember to put something between the front and back.
2. Stamp your image onto the fabric firmly (Bold images work best). Remove the stamp and let dry or heat with a heat tool. (Note: By using the heat tool to dry the detergent, this will help make it so that it doesn’t smear while doing the rest of the fabric.
3. Once you’ve stamped your images, wait and watch. The gel is weaker than liquid so the color change takes longer & sometimes not as pronounced. Even so, you may like a lesser change.
4. If you like what you see, rinse the piece in water to remove the gel. Then iron it dry, if you’re in a hurry or put it in the dryer. This stops the bleaching reaction. Another way to stop the bleaching process, when you like what you see, is to use vinegar or baking soda. This neutralizes the bleach.
Whatever is easier for you.
Uses:
1. If it’s a garment that you’ve stamped, rinsed, & dried….it’s ready for use at this time.
2. If it’s a bleached stamped swatch, you can use fusible webbing (wonder-under) and iron it to a card or to attach it to a garment. If attaching it to a garment you can sew around the edges, fringe if you like &/or use wonder-under or sew it on.




BLEACH STAMPING/CARDSTOCK
Before stamping or using bleach, be sure that your area is well ventilated and is protected. You may consider wearing clothing that you don’t mind messing up should bleach get on you. There are a few different ways to apply liquid bleach to your stamps.
1. Paper Towel Pad: Pour fresh liquid bleach onto a bed of folded paper towels….not too much bleach, making sure it’s wet but not full of puddles.
2. Fine Mist Spritzer Bottle (like Judikins): Put undiluted liquid bleach in the bottle & mist over a protected area…..spray away from your face…wave the stamp though the mist. Don’t spray directly onto the stamp. The stamp only needs to be barely damp to work on your cardstock. You’ll know that it works for you when you’ve tested this onto scrap cardstock.
3. Felt Pad: Instead of using paper towels as a pad….make one of felt. Saturate the felt. You can pour the bleach out when done & reuse the container later with fresh bleach. The containers people have used for their paper towel pad or felt pads have been the bottom of Tupperware, a sandwich size Glad container or recycle a styrofoam meat tray. Keeping bleach in a spritzer bottle or container….you’ll notice that bleach will become cloudy with time. This is the bleach reacting to light (notice that bleach bottles are opaque). Just pour out unused bleach & refresh your container when ready to use again.
Experiment for what works right for you & practice. When using the paper towel pad or felt pad…..dab (not push the stamp too hard in the bleach) your stamp onto the bleach pad a few times to make sure you have it wet & covered. Stamp your images onto the cardstock. Hold the stamp down for several seconds, so that the detail of the stamp gets impressed onto the paper. If you want a lighter/less detailed look…hold the stamp down not for very long. Watch the change. Clean your stamps immediately after using them & dry…..Stampin’ Mist is a cleaner for this.




LEATHER STAMPING
Materials:
Rubber Stamps
Leather (Can buy kits too! Like photo frame, coaster or checkbook)
Brush markers or dye-based ink, Fabrico Crafter Ink
Stamp Cleaner
Leather Sheen (a spray to protect the leather)
Steps:
1. Ink stamp with different color brush markers or ink pads. Stamp leather with different images, reinking stamp after each impression. Clean stamp with stamp cleaner when changing colors. You might find it helpful to make paper patterns to plan the design before stamping directly onto leather.
2. Once design is completely stamped and dry, spray Leather Sheen to protect the stamped images.
Variations and Tips:
1. Select stamps and colors to coordinate with photograph (if doing a frame) or room decor.
2. Stamp small pieces of leather in other colors and cut into different shapes. Adhere leather pieces, beads and buttons to photo frame for a three-dimensional effect.




WOOD STAMPING
Some raw wood tends to cause your ink to "bleed", and some finished wood is too slick to hold the ink. For best results:
1. Lightly sand the wood until smooth. Take a tack cloth & clean off dust from sanding.
2. Spray seal with an clear acrylic sealer or with a polyurethane stain. Let dry.
3. Emboss your images with Colorbox inks.
4. Color outline images in with watered down acrylic paints for a more transparent look.
5. Seal your wood item with clear acrylic sealer spray or brush on a clear sealer & let dry.
A couple of variations (bold images work best):
1. You may choose to take a sponge brush & apply acrylic paint to the stamp image & stamp on wood.
2. You may want to stamp images in Fabrico ink pads & not emboss your images. Be sure to heat set with a blow dryer or heat tool.




WOODBURNING IMAGES
Wood Object (plate, tray, box, etc.) * Rubber Stamps * Light Colored Dye-Based Ink * Woodburning Tool * Tack Cloth Fine Sandpaper * Oil Color Pencils * Cotton Swabs
Instructions:
1. Lightly sand wood to make surface smooth. Use tack cloth to remove any loose dust.
2. Ink stamp with dye-based ink & stamp onto surface of wood. Re-ink stamp after each impression.
3. Use wood burning tool to trace over stamped impression. The image will turn brown. The longer the tip is left on the wood, the darker brown the image will become. (chisel tip)
4. Add color to stamped, burned image using oil pencils. Blend the colors with cotton swabs. Spray seal.




DECOUPAGE/WOOD
Wood Object
* Rubber Stamps
* Pigment Ink
* Embossing Powder
* Acrylic Paint or Stain
* Watercolors or Any Coloring Medium
* Brushes to Apply Paint or Stain
* Paper
* Sandpaper
* Tack Cloth
* Embossing Heat Tool
* Decoupage Glue
* Decoupage Varnish
Instructions:
1. Sand the wood with sandpaper, then wipe it lightly with a tack cloth.
2. Basecoat your wood object with stain or acrylic paint. Let dry & apply another coat if necessary.
Stamping/Embossing/Coloring
3. Stamp & emboss images on paper.
4. Color in images with watercolor, pencils….whatever the medium of your choice.
5. Cut out images & see how you want to arrange on wood surface.




Decoupage~Finishing
6. Use decoupage glue to paste your images in place. Let dry thoroughly.
7. Apply several layers of decoupage varnish to the surface of the wood object, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next, until all images are embedded in the varnish & the surface of the wood is smooth & even.




PULL CARD – MOVING CARD
Stamps * Ink Pads * Utility Knife * Double-Stick Mounting Tape * String, Ribbon, or Yarn * Monoadhesive
1. Choose the image that you want to slide on the card. Stamp it on a scarp of cardstock, color & cut out.
2. Stamp & color on main card.
3. Cut a narrow strip on your card (about ¼” wide) where you want the image to slide. DO NOT cut all the way to the edge of the card.
4. Cut a narrow strip of cardstock (no wider than you image & long enough to fold around the cut strip on the main card.) Fold this narrow strip around the cut strip on the main card & attach it to itself with Monoadhesive. This attached piece should slide freely across the cut strip. It needs to be a fairly close fit around the cut strip or else the image will wobble as you slide it.
5. Attach your image to the sliding piece on the front of the card with double-sided, heavy duty mounting tape.
6. Attach a piece of sting, ribbon or yarn to the sliding piece on the back of the card. BE SURE that it is not attached to anything else. You can use the heavy duty mounting tape for this too. The ribbon will extend several inches past both ends of the card.
7. Seal a backing over the working parts to hide your secrets. As you glue your main card onto the backing, leave unglued spaces for you ribbon to pull freely.




GIFT BAGS
Stamp your image on a square of fabric & apply some fuseable web to the back. Iron the image onto the bag and add a matching paper twist bow. You can add embellishments such as buttons & other little things by simply gluing them onto the bag. You can leave the bag plain or wheel or stamp a pattern onto the bag before attaching fabric to the gift bag.
Problem –Rolling over the handles of the gift bags with the wheel stamps…you get white gaps.
Solutions:
1. Roller below the handles only:
2. You can take card stock the width of your bag by about 6-8 inches, fold it in half, (with of bag sides together). Following the fold line, cut a slit in the center of the fold, large enough to slip handles through. Looks like a roof on the bag.
Lunch Sacks:
Fold down the top of the bag at least twice. Punch holes on the fold in the middle. Thread with raffia, organza ribbon, etc & make a bow. Or you can attach handles to your lunch sacks “after” you have stamped & decorated them. Make handles out of unopened paper twist & tape inside. Reinforce bottom of the bag with a piece of cardboard., to keep the lunch sack/gift bag from crumpling in.




MARSHMALLOW STAMPING
1. The Marshmallows Buy marshmallows that are loosely packed…that don’t look gooey or noticeably stuck together. The surface should have a lightly dusted dull appearance & not sticky.
2. The Stamp & Stamp Pad
The stamp should be clean. Ink a blank stamp pad with food coloring very lightly. Use the minimum amount that works. If you over ink the stamp pad, you will get illegible blotches. If you over ink the stamp pad, just press with paper towels to mop up the excess.
3. The Technique
Practice to get the right touch. A light quick touch on the stamp pad followed by a light quick imprint of the marshmallows works best. You could impress the 2 ends of the marshmallow or try stamping the curved side.




STAMPING IN CHOCOLATE
Clean Rubber Stamps * Chocolate * Small Bottle of Glycerin (available at pharmacies & candymaking stores) * Heat Tool * Refrigerator
* If you make molded chocolates, you will need a candy mold.
Stamps
Be sure your stamps are clean & that the inks you’ve used before on them have all been non-toxic inks. If you are using new stamps, you should wipe them before use. Practice to see which images work best for you.
Chocolate
Read the label of the chocolates you buy with stamping in mind. Avoid chocolates with paraffin or beeswax. The best chocolates, in terms of taste, smoothness, & stampability, are the ones richest in cocoa butter – the only vegetable oil that’s solid at room temperature, but which melts quite nicely in your mouth.
To Make Chocolate Bars
1. Take a candy bar out of the refrigerator & unwrap it.
2. Point the heat tool only at the area that you want to stamp. Do a quick count to three (you’ll see a sheen on the chocolate as it starts to melt), then turn off the heat tool.
3. Stamp the chocolate while it’s still hot.
Molded Chocolates
1. Melt some chocolate chips & spoon them into the chocolate mold. Tap the mold on the counter several times to shake out the air bubbles.
2. Cool the chocolate in your freezer. This helps the chocolate to set more quickly & makes it easier to remove. After the chocolate is solid, remove it from the freezer & warm the chocolate with the heat tool….continue just like in the instructions for the chocolate bars above.




CAKE STAMPING #1
I decorate cakes and have been amazed at how well you can stamp on cakes if you follow a few simple guidelines. The easiest frosting to stamp on is the rolled fondant frosting. I buy mine at the local craft store in with their cake supplies. You can stamp on this with either regular frosting or food coloring (the paste type coloring always works best.) I have stamped on regular frosting using the paste food coloring but you have to be sure that the frosting has dried for a good 2 hours before you attempt to stamp on it. I do prefer the rolled fondant if I'm going to stamp because you can stamp on it before you lay it on the cake making it very easy to stamp on the sides of the cake and not just the top. I have a mini airbrush for cake decorating so I can also color in the images as well. This is a great idea for your children's birthdays because you can coordinate everything right down to the cake.
The final option for stamping on cakes is to buy the sheets of rice paper. This is what the bakery decorator’s use. (If you go to a bakery and look at the Disney cakes that look like the characters have been drawn on, that is a rice paper overlay no taste to it and it absorbs right into the cake frosting.)




CAKE STAMPING #2
Stamp your image on rice paper. This is also called wafer paper. It is available at some cake supply stores & may be available form your local bakery. Stamp your image with your Stampin’ Pads. They are non-toxic & will not hurt anyone if they ingest the tiny amount of ink on their slice of cake. If you feel squeamish aobut using regular ink, you can make up your own “ink pad” using a blank ink pad or paper towel. Apply aomewhat watered down paste color to the pad (be sure to protect your table). Press in your stamp. Test on paper first. If you use the liquid food color from the grocery store, your image may not be as dark as you need it to be & you may end up using up quite a lot of food coloring anyway. (I have found that the Stampin’ Pads are a lot easier to use!) Place your stamped rice paper on your iced cake. After a while the rice paper will dissolve into the icing & only the image will remain visible. You can choose to decorate the edge of the rice paper to sore of “frame’ the image. A shell border looks nice.
*You can stamp directly onto buttercream icing. First ice & smooth your cake. Allow the buttercream to set for at least a few hours & preferable overnight. The icing should have a “crust” on it. GENTLY stamp your image onto the buttercream. Color with diluted paste colors, (dilute with lemon extract – remember alcohol will evaporate). Or use your Stampin’ Pads in the colors needed, no coloring may be necessary.
You can stamp an image on paper. Trace the image on the backside on the paper because you will need the reverse image. Cover the backside of the picture with waxed paper. Use a decorating bag filled with clear piping gel (available at cake & craft stores) & a #1 round decorating tip to copy the image. Invert the wax paper, piping gel side down, & place it on your iced & smoothed cake. Gently press around the image, pushing the gel onto the icing on the cake. Remove the waxed paper. Outline the image on the cake with icing. Fill in with colored icing – let me recommend stars for the beginning cake decorator With any of these methods practice first. It might take a while before you are comfortable with any of them.




BLENDER PENS
The blender pens makes floating or blending color easier. It enables you to blend several hues together, giving more variation with mediums. You can achieve this without using as many colors, but still getting depth and variation in color. It works with all water based markers, colored pencils, chalks, dye pads and pigment pads (cat eye, etc).
Blending Techniques on Embossed Images:
1. With the tip of your water based markers, lay a hint of color on the actual embossed line of an image. This color is now sitting on the surface of the embossed line. The embossed lines serve as a palette, making it easier to move the color, thus eliminating a hard line created by the marker. Working in a circular motion and in small areas, use the Blender pen to pull out the marker color into the open area of the design. When this process is completed a light application of color will appear on the image. To prevent the color from appearing too washed out, continue to add more color using the marker and the blender until the desired depth of the color is achieved.
2. Start with lighter colors and then gradually add darker colors.
3. Limit the colors to be used. Three basic colors differing in intensity, plus variations in value, will give life and interest to a stamped image.




Helpful Blending Tips:
1. Place several short strokes of water based marker color onto a white glass bowl or Styrofoam plastic plate/palette. Using the blender pen, pick up the color and apply it to the stamped image.
2. When working an intense color, to lighten that color, touch the tip of the marker to the tip of the blender. By touching the tip of the blender with the tip of the marker, the marker color that has transferred to the blender tip will be lighter in value.
3. Apply the blender to the stamped image first working in small areas at a time. This preps the area and allows one to apply various marker colors to blend directly onto the card.
4. Before changing colors, wipe the blender clean on a scrap piece of paper. Be careful not to pick up too much color. If there is too much, simply wipe the blender tip on a scrap piece of paper before coloring the image.
5. For a realistic blended look, layer color on top of color. For ex: Start with marker color (or blend the colors on a palette, then apply to the image.




Blender Pen & Watercolor Pencils
The blender pen is perfect for blending watercolor pencils, eliminating the need for water & a paintbrush. The colors intensify & blend smoothly. The paper does not buckle from being over-moistened. Take each color you are going to use & make a palette by scribbling a little color on a separate piece of paper with all the colors, then take the blender pen & pick up the color & apply to the image.




Blender Pen & Chalk
Blend & moisten chalk colors with the blender pen to intensify colors & work the chalk into the surface of the paper. You can apply a little to an area you are coloring or use an applicator & take the blender pen tip to it to pick up the color, then apply to image. It will not need spray fixative to remain in place., the blender pen sets the chalk.




Blender Pen & Ink Pads
Stamp an image using a waterbased dye pad. Use the blender pen to lightly stroke the outline color into the inside areas. This will result in an image with several tones of the same color.




Blender Pen & Markers
1. Stamp an image by coloring the rubber die of the stamp with waterbased makers. Pull color form the outline to the center areas by stroking with the blender pen.
2. Use a blender pen to apply marker ink which has been scribbled onto a palette, blending colors just like you would blend watercolor paints with a brush.
3. Use a blender pen to soften the stroke marks left behind when you have colored an area with markers.
Blender Pen & Watercolor Paints
Dip the blender pen directly into the watercolor paint palette & pick up the color. Start coloring your image.




BLENDER PEN – REFILL RECIPE
In a one-ounce dropper bottle add: 1/3 part Glycerin, 2/3 part Distilled Water, 1/4-tsp. alcohol
Carefully remove either end of your marker with pliers and a light twisting motion. Add a few drops of the liquid to the marker. (More is not better here. Too much liquid will result in a runny mess) Replace the tip. Lay marker on its side overnight.




EMBOSSING –BASIC HEAT EMBOSSING – THERMAL EMBOSSING
Stamp an image with an embossable ink (pigment or embossing pad) & pour embossing powder over the image while the ink is still wet. Tap off excess powder back into jar for next use. One jar lasts a long time! To remove stray powder, gently blow &/or use a fine round paint brush to brush it away. Heat the image using a Heat Embossing Tool. The powder will quickly melt, leaving a shiny, raised image. Try each combinations (pigment ink, embossing ink, different powders, etc.) to see what works best for you, & what combination you prefer.
Paper Warping during Embossing ?
Try and hold the embossing gun farther from the paper. If that doesn't work try to heat the paper from under instead of on top. Or you can place your card on a small wire cake-rack while heating the EP. The card~paper *won't* curl and your hand won't get burned.




DIRECT TO PAPER
1. Apply colors directly to paper with Cat’s Eye, Petal Point, Colorbox, Paintbox, or Option Plates by gently rubbing the pad onto the paper. You can use the entire sponge surface or part of it (tip or edge). The movement of your hand will create a texture or pattern. Try different movements, never press or pull too hard. Reink often to avoid damaging the foam pad. This can create a beautiful background. Use 2-3 colors.
2. Stamp all the images with darker color ink. At this point you have 2 options:
A. Let it dry as is & consider your artwork finished.
B. Emboss the entire surface with Clear powder for an enameled effect.




RESIST EMBOSSING
1. Emboss a few stamped images with Top Boss Clear Embossing Ink & Crystal Clear emboss powder.
2. Stamp the same image, or different images, in several colors of pigment ink.
3. Emboss again with Crystal Clear emboss powder (the powder will adhere to the pigment ink).
4. Rub a dark pigment ink color all over the entire surface (or use a brayer)...this will color the space between your embossed images.
5. Rub a tissue gently on the embossed design to make it brighter.
6. Emboss the entire surface with Crystal Clear powder.




JOSEPH’S COAT – RESIST EMBOSSING
1. Ink up with the rubber snap-in-brayer on a Kaleidacolor rainbow pad.....create a background on glossy paper.
2. Stamp an image using Top Boss Clear Ink & Crystal Clear emboss powder, heat set. Roll brayer over the embossed image with a dark brilliant color such as black, navy or teal, etc. Embossed images will start to appear; you can use a tissue to remove any dark ink that remained.




RESIST – INK RESIST
1. Ink up your bold image with Frost White ink & emboss with white embossing powder.
2. Wash over your embossed images with watercolor in whatever pattern you choose.
The images will resist the color & color will appear around the images only. Any excess residue from the watercolor on the embossed images can be removed by rubbing off with a soft cloth or tissue.




SLATE STAMPING
You can emboss an image first or you may apply a coat of white paint in a certain area on the slate for you to stamp on.
1. Sponge a little acrylic paint on the slate first. Slate can be a little slick this helps the ink & color to adhere.
2. You can stamp with Fabrico & heat set. Warning - the rock absorbs a lot of heat & stays hot for several minutes. Let it cool or you could burn yourself.
3. You can color in images with watercolor pencils or watered down acrylic paint.
4. Seal with a clear acrylic sealer spray.




MULTI-LAYER
Matte Cardstock
* Clear Embossing Powder
* Emboss Enamel
* Variety of Embossing Powders
* Embossing Pad or Pigment Ink
1. Lightly coat surface of desired cardstock with embossing ink. Tap gently with the embossing pad or rubbing surface. Take care not to get a thick coating or it will “oil” up on you.
2. Emboss with clear powder. Repeat 2-4 times. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors & metallics, etc.
3. Take your image & ink it up in either the tinted embossing pad or to add pizzazz, ink up your image with a metallic pigment ink pad. Either of these will act as a releasing agent to get your stamp out of the hot embossing enamel.
4. Set stamp aside & do final embossing layer then while it’s hot, embed the stamp into the enamel. Wait a minute, then pull to release. Your image should be “embossed” into the enamel.
Variation:
1. Ink up image with metallic pigment ink & set aside.
2. Lay down layers of complimentary pigment ink colors & emboss with clear powder....repeat 3-4 times.
3. Stamp image into hot final layer of enamel.




EMBOSS PUFF
Ink stamp with Top Boss Tinted Embossing Pad or Colorbox Frost White Pad…stamp image. Sprinkle image with Emboss Puff, shake off excess. Heat with Heat Tool.
Different Effects with Stampin’ Emboss Puff:
Pastels: You can apply the pastels to the image after it has been heated. The pastels adhere to the puffy image resulting in more dramatic colors.
Watercolors: You can watercolor over or around the Puff giving it a nice soft effect when you don’t want dramatic dark outlines.
Brayer: The sponge brayer works beautifully over the Puff. It works both dry and wet to create a lovely background, while the Puff resists color, remaining white and fluffy.




TOTAL EMBOSSED BACKGROUND
Ink the brayer with embossing ink and roll onto entire paper surface. You can use colored paper or brayer or sponge the paper in the color(s) you want. Sprinkle with clear or sparkle embossing powder and heat.
Try different powders for a variety of looks. For an elegant look, emboss the entire sheet with gold or another metallic powder.
You can use this to layer, punch out shapes, cut strips….accents for collages.








RAINBOW EMBOSSING
Materials:
Top Boss Clear Embossing Pad 2-3 Different Embossing Powders 1. Ink up your image with embossing pad.
2. Pour the first color of embossing powder on only part of the image & shake off excess. Repeat until you have covered the image with the different embossing powders that you have chosen. When adding a new embossing powder....it will not stick where there is already embossing powder.
3. Heat the entire image with heat tool. You now have a rainbow effect with different colored powders on the same images.




EMBOSSING ON METAL
Thin Sheets of Metal in Copper or Gold
* Rubber Stamps
* Embossing Ink
* Gold or Copper Embossing Powder
* Heat Tool
*Old Pair of Scissors
* Pencil
* Gloves
* Masking Tape
* Silicone Adhesive
Instructions:
1. Wear gloves to protect hands from being cut on metal. Cover sharp edges of metal with masking tape.
2. Determine size of metal (for embellishing wood box)
3. Use pencil & ruler & lightly mark wrong side of metal.
4. Use scissors to cut metal to desired size & shape.
5. Wipe metal with soft cloth to remove dust & fingerprints.
6. Ink stamp with embossing ink & stamp image onto metal.
7. Sprinkle image with embossing powder.
8. Tap excess off and reserve. Use small paintbrush to brush away any unwanted powder from metal.
9. Use heat tool to melt embossing powder. Lay metal piece on table or hold with glove, as metal will become hot.
10. Adhere stamped metal with silicone adhesive (to wood box & brass tacks)




LIP PRINTS
Make your own personalized lip prints. Use lipstick, lip gloss or balm, or even a TINY bit of pure glycerine and apply as you would lipstick, only very lightly, you don't want the extra 'grease' to soak into your card/envy. Dust with any color EP and heat, there you have YOUR lip print on your card or envy. You might need to clean the outline up a tiny bit with a dry paintbrush. Practice a bit first.




EMBOSSING TERRACOTTA
Seal the terracotta tiles very lightly with a coat of acrylic spray sealer. Let dry. Figure out a pattern on scratch paper before stamping on tile. Stamp with pigment ink & sprinkle embossing powder. Tap off excess powder, use a paint brush to remove stray powder. Melt powder with a heat tool. Embossing takes longer to melt on terracotta than it does on paper. Be careful as tile gets very hot.
This is for decorative purposes only.




STAMPIN’ EMBOSS ENAMEL - OVER EMBOSSING
This is a large grain, clear embossing powder that is versatile in use. Many different textures can be achieved. The large granules spread out as they are heated, creating a smooth, glassy, extra thick surface.
1. Apply a thin layer of clear embossing ink over the entire surface to be treated.
2. Pour enamel onto surface, insuring it’s completely covered, tap off the excess.
3. Melt with your heat tool. Immediately, while it’s still hot, pour more enamel on top & heat again.
4. You can do this process 2-3 times….depending on the texture you would like to have. A single layer of embossing enamel gives a bumpy texture, like water drops on glass. To build up texture and dimension, add a second coat in the same manner. A third coat produces a surface as smooth as glass.
Tips:
1. Place the surface that you will be embossing inside a shoe box or something you have on hand. The powder flies everywhere, this way you’ll have more control. Or to apply a heavy coat of enamel, heat from beneath to prevent it from blowing away in the melting process.
2. Many people put there embossing powders in containers other than the jars that hold them. A place Tupperware container works nice. This way you can spoon or dip your work in the embossing powder. Eliminating the need to put it back in a small jar & getting powder all over the place.




CLEAR ON CLEAR EMBOSSING
Using clear or slightly tinted embossing pad, stamp your image on colored paper. Use clear embossing powder over the clear inked stamped image & heat emboss it. You now have a subtle, yet elegant looking stamped image that shows through the color of your paper. The clear outline of the embossed image with catch your eye against the colored background of the paper you have chosen.




VELLUM EMBOSSING
White Vellum * Embossing Pad (white or other color)
1. Stamp image on vellum with embossing ink, emboss (allow heat source to warm up to maximum temperature as vellum is not designed to withstand such heat & will pucker/bubble/scorch rapidly) quickly.
2. Color the design from behind for a soft subtle stained glass look with markers or colored pencils. Mop up extra ink & let dry. You can color the image on top of the vellum for a bright vibrant look too.




DOUBLE OR TRIPLE EMBOSSING (using regular clear embossing powder)
Color in design that has already been heat embossed (markers, colored pencils, pastels). Brush or sponge clear embossing ink from the pad onto the color areas of the design. Pour on clear embossing powder & heat. You have now double embossed the stamped image.
Method #1
Rub clear or tinted embossing ink directly on the paper, pour powder, tap off, heat & repeat 5-7 times.
After your layers are built up, take the stamp of your choice & ink with pigment ink, color of your choice, set inked stamp aside.
Heat embossed layers until good & melted. Quickly & firmly press inked stamp into the melted goo. Hold there until melted area cools. Gently pull your stamp out. Method #2
Stamp a bold image stamp in pigment ink & emboss in color of your choice.
Rub clear embossing ink over image. Take a pinch of various colors of embossing powders & sprinkle here & there over image. Tap off, & heat.
Don’t worry about going out of the lines in your image. Do this until the desired colored effect is reached. Then finish off with a layer or two of clear powder.
Cut out image & mount with foam tape to card.
Method #3
Stamp image(s) in clear ink & emboss in clear powder.
Rub various colored ink pads over the entire piece of paper & emboss with clear powder.
Finish with one or tow layers of clear powder using clear ink.




WINDOW CARDS
Glossy Notecard * Piece of Glossy Cardstock , same size as front of card * Craft Knife * Acetate Sheet * Double-Stick Tape * Mounting Tape (optional)
1. Stamp a large open image onto the front of the glossy notecard. Stamp other coordinating designs or words on the cover as well.
2. Cut out an opening with the craft knife, in the large open image on your card….so you can see through to the inside of the card.
3. Take the extra piece of glossy paper that is the same size as the front of your card….& stamp a scene.
4. Open the folded card & place double-stick tape around the back of the opening.
5. Cut a piece of the clear acetate at least ½” larger than the opening in the card all the way around. Lay it over the opening, sticking it down on the tape. Make sure it extends over the opening.
6. Put double stick tape around the edges of the scene on the other paper with the scene stamped & colored on it.
7. Put double-stick tape again around the edges of the cut opening over the acetate.
8. If you want more space, put mounting tape (double-sided foam tape) on the card between the tape layers. This is optional, but it allows the glitter & confetti to float around.




BRAYERING
Brayering is a technique where you use a rubber, acrylic or foam snap – in roller to apply color, usually for backgrounds. You can use ink pads or markers to color your brayer. Using an ink pad, roll your brayer to thoroughly cover it with color. Roll the brayer over paper. Note: If you are applying ink over glossy paper, make sure you are using dye-ink, not pigment ink. If you use pigment ink, the ink will never dry on glossy paper unless you emboss it.




Brayers & Markers
You can use markers on the brayers to create fantastic backgrounds. Using a marker, apply ink directly onto the brayer. You can draw stripes, dots, zig-zags, or whatever you're in the mood for. Repeat the design using different color markers. When you are done creating the design on the brayer, roll the brayer onto paper. The design will transfer to the paper. Use glossy card stock for the brightest colors. Use matte paper for a softer look.




Brayering a Rainbow Background
Ink up with the rubber snap-in-brayer on a Kaleidacolor rainbow pad. Roll the brayer onto glossy cardstock for best results. Roll back & forth for complete coverage. This will be the basis for other techniques found on this list.




Brayer: Repeating An Image – Reverse Image
For a background, ink up a stamp such as a cloud, tree, or flower. Roll your brayer over the stamp 2-3 times before reinking. Repeat this process to ink up your brayer. Roll over cardstock for a subtle background. This is great for landscapes and florals.




Brayer A Honeycomb Background
1. Ink up your rubber brayer in Sunflower ink & roll over a piece of bubble wrap.
Brayer/ Rubberband Background
1. Place rubberbands around an acrylic brayer....bands in different widths will give you different looks.




Compiled and permission to use given by:
Eileen Hochstein







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